Spot Buys Maverick

We haven't seen any press releases yet, but word at our local Spot/Maverick dealer is that the two Boulder-based bike companies are now (or will soon be) under the same ownership. Spot's recent ownership change seems to have pumped some much needed capital into the company and resulted in what looks like a very cool range for 2008 (including several belt drive single speeds). Maverick has been coming up with some very cool ideas and great-riding bikes since day one, but their recent business and complete bike spec choices certainly haven't helped them grow to their business. Here's hoping that the Spot folks can help get more folks on what we consider to be one of the best all-around mountain bikes on the market.

www.spotbikes.com
www.maverickbike.com

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bikefix Exclusive Review: Selle Italia XO Trans Am saddle

Why pay more? Every once in a while I stumble across a product that far exceeds the expectations generated by its modest price tag. Sometimes, corners have been cut but they're corners you don't really need. Sometimes, though, no corners appear to have been cut and one can't help but assume that the price was a mistake. This here saddle is an example of the latter.

Several years ago, a girlfriend picked up a Giant Cypress SX sporty hybrid. It was a cool bike for sure, and it came with a cheap OEM version of Selle Italia's XO Trans Am saddle. An avid mountain biker, she loved it and we ordered another for her mountain bike. The $40 aftermarket version of the saddle has steel rails, medium padding, a medium width, a 'taint-saving chasm down the center and is made of a nice durable synthetic cover. Doesn't sound particularly performance-oriented, does it? Somehow, I ended up riding the saddle a few times and was blown away. The multi-density foam is comfortable without being squidgy with an unobtrusive shape and no sharp corners anywhere. Oh, and it weighs came in at 270g. And is made in Italy.

Now, you can spend a lot of money on a saddle that is a lot less comfortable that weighs just as much. For reference, the $200 Aliante Carbon comes in at 259g. Nor the Aliante is a very good saddle. I have the "Gamma" version on a couple of bikes. If I'm going to spend all day on the bike, though, they don't come close to the XO in comfort. The saddle pictured here has been on several bikes and survived several 24 hour races- so its holding up just fine. What's not to like? Nothing comes to mind. Just be sure to spend the extra $10 or so to get the aftermarket version- the OEM has a vinyl cover that doesn't hold up nearly as well. Everybody's body is different, so trying before you buy isn't a bad idea. Of course, at $40, giving it a go isn't a huge risk.

marc

www.selleitalia.com

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Hard at work...

Short update this time 'round: We spent several days last week in Moab testing gear from all sorts of folks- Commencal, Uvex, SRAM, Specialized, Pearl Izumi, Adidas and Fox (to name a few). Unfortunately, with a weekend lost to riding, real world duties will have to take precedence for a day or two. So, here are a couple of pictures to whet your appetite. We hope that its sunny where you are...

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bikefix Review Update: Specialized Eskar Control 2Bliss tire

When I first wrote about the Specialized's new Eskar, I expressed some concern over the thin sidewalls of the the company's Tubeless Ready format. Unlike UST standard tubeless tires, Tubeless Ready tires' casings lack a sealing rubber layer- relying instead on a sealant such as Stans' or Specialized's own AirLock liquid. While they certainly are lighter (at 700g) and quite possibly less expensive to make, I’m afraid to report that the thinner sidewalls have proved to be a bit of an Achilles heel. At lower pressures, they have been “burping” (releasing air at the bead:rim interface) quite often. On one recent ride, at 32psi, the front tire “burped” in a downhill corner and the unexpected deflation and threw me over the handlebars. There was no damage to the tire and fortunately, we were able to re-seat it using a hand pump and careful manipulation. For the record, I should note that Specialized lists 35psi as the minimum pressure for these tires. However, requiring high pressures defeats much of what makes tubeless great. Many of us have been riding below the manufacturer’s stated minimum psi. on all sorts of tires for quite a while now, and this will be the first time we have had a problem of this magnitude.

Besides all that, I have noticed more tire roll when cornering (at any speed), and when getting jostled about in rock gardens. Despite all of this there has not been any noticeable damage to the tires' cut-resistant "420/D1" sidewalls. Ultimately, though, I believe that this tire would be improved with the impermeable inner layer that seems to give UST tires more rigidity, albeit with more weight. It is a trade-off I am willing to make- especially in a 'trail' or 'all-mountain' tire. I will ride this tire until I find a comparable replacement to install and review- but will be riding it at 38-40psi. I will update this review again if I see anything else new.

charlie

www.specialized.com

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cycling: safer than sex.

With Bike To Work Day coming up next Wednesday, we thought we might mention a couple of cycling-related facts. Riding to work allows many of us to kill two birds with one stone- getting to work and getting a ride in. Even if it's a couple of days a week, it's a great way to start the day and to put the stresses of work behind at its end.

Of course, there is a perception that riding to work can be dangerous. While its nothing to be taken lightly, so is driving. As frame builder Dave Moulton puts it, "If you rode your bike non-stop for 114 years, which is one million hours, your chances of being killed on the road would be roughly 1 in 4. In that same period, your chances of dying of natural causes would be at least 99.999%." Interesting math, but the fact remains that you're twice as likely to die in the car. You'll also be fighting off heart disease, pollution and congestion. If your commute is 20mi or under, you'd be surprised how little of a burden riding in is and of course, it's cheaper than driving and tends to cut down on unnecessary errands. Use Monday's ride as a recovery day and take Tuesday off and you may well be riding stronger come Sunday.

Its not an option for everyone, but is probably viable for more folks than tend to believe it....

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bikefix Exclusive Review: Maxxis Re-Fuse tires

I hate getting flats. Nothing has the potential to interrupt a good ride, on road or off, like the ffft-ffft-ffft-ffft of a punctured tire. At the least, it means a 5-10 minute repair. More often, though, it's a messy job performed with frustratingly insufficient little pumps, aged (and sometimes pre-punctured) tubes and (on really bad days) cold, driving rain. Before moving to the desert (and a city where roadside broken glass is endemic), I wasn't a big fan of sealant or puncture resistant tires. Oh how things change. Sure, puncture-resistant tires are heavier, more expensive and don't ride or corner as well as their softer counterparts. Sealant-filled tubes can be messy, heavy and fail as often as they work. That said, it doesn't matter how light or fast standard tubes and tires are if they aren't holding air. You can still win a race or get to work on time with heavy tires- not flat ones.

Enter Maxxis' Re-Fuse. It's a folding bead tire with both a woven Kevlar belt and what Maxxis calls their "Silkworm" cap. Details are sketchy, but it's a material that's claimed to increase puncture resistance, cut resistance and rolling efficiency. It has a knurled tread, is intended to be the company's most bombproof training tire and comes in at a reasonable 245g (700x23c). Pricing is a very reasonable $31.

For a while, I believed that these were the bees knees. They ride well enough and can be ridden fearlessly through all manner of road debris. Despite using them on two commuting bikes (fixed and geared) 3-4 days/week for past two years, I have zero flats. None. Once, while a bike was in the stand, I noticed a cut in the tire with something in it. I used a dental pick to fish out a piece of glass that had installed itself between the casing and tread rubber. Looking harder, I found three or four others. Still, no flats. That's pretty darn badass. Compared with other puncture-resistant tires, the Re-Fuse ride pretty darn well and aren't nearly as scary in corners. Several years back, working as a messenger, I laid a bike out and slid across traffic and in front of an oncoming limo. I still place blame (at least in part) on a pair of "puncture-proof" tires' stiff casing and their hard rubber tread hard rubber. It wasn't fun and is something I'd like very much to avoid repeating. Compared to the competition, the Re-Fuses are very confidence inspiring, both in wet and dry conditions.

Recently, though, I've started to see problems with the Re-Fuses I'm riding and have recommended to others. Nobody's complaining about the puncture resistance, but Maxxis seem to be having trouble getting the rubber to stick to the casing. A co-worker recently pointed out a 3in x 1/4in section of the tire with no tread- it had come completely away and he was riding on the woven casing. No flats, but that shouldn't happen- an exposed section of rubber-free casing can mean (at best) unpredictable cornering. Of course, taking photos of my tires for this review, I found a similar section on my commuter. After about 700 miles, my tire had to go in the bin. That's far too soon, in my opinion, regardless of a tire's price. The mating tire had a number of wrinkles where the rubber looks to be decomposing (see second photo). Again, no flats, but it doesn't speak well for the tires' lifespan.

It's a shame- my first set or two of the Re-Fuse had none of these problems. Hopefully, Maxxis has just had a bit of a production hiccup and already remedied the problem. I will be trying to get mine warrantied, but am not holding my breath (tire warranties are a hard thing). If they can get the rubber to stick to what has proved to be a bombproof casing, they'll have one of the best tires available for folks in thorn, glass or goathead infested areas.

marc

www.maxxis.com

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bikefix Initial Review: Giro Semi sunglasses

As I have said in the past, I am a sucker for sunglasses. I will try almost anything new and potentially better than what I'm wearing at the moment. When I read that the new Giro sunglasses were going to have Zeiss-certified lenses, I became very interested. Carl Zeiss is a legend in the optics industry, making and certifying some of the best camera lenses, binoculars, and scopes available. When the glasses came out, though, only the grey polarized lens for the Semi model was Zeiss certified. Because I don’t like polarized lenses for riding, I opted for the Rose-Silver- but all of the lenses are claimed to be manufactured with to the highest quality. I picked the Semi because it fit my face the better than the other “active” model (the Havik). The Havik and all its lenses are Zeiss certified, but the fit was too narrow for my face. The Havik features the only interchangeable lenses in the Giro line, which includes two "Active" models and two more casual (as in wearable off the bike) models.

One of the big selling points of the new Giro line is that the glasses are designed to fit well while wearing cycling helmets (only Giro helmets?). Giro calls this "Super Fit Engineering," which basically translates to "Short Arms." In the past I have had glasses that hit my helmet's retention system and it is a real problem (especially if they interact too much, which can cause crippling headaches). While it’s true that the Semi’s didn’t bump or rub on any of my helmets, I have a number of sunglasses that don’t get interfere with the helmet either. It has also been years since I had that problem, so it may not be a very unique feature, but it is a helpful one. Separately of the helmet issue, the Semi fit is snug at first but does loosen over the first few rides. They now fit me perfectly, even on my big round head. The Giro rep for our region said you can expect all the models to loosen after the first few rides, something to be aware of when trying them on. They don’t move or jostle around on my face when the trail gets rough, but they don’t give me a headache like some overly-snug frames have in the past. The nose and arm pads are made of a material whose grip increases when you sweat.

Another feature that took some effort on Giro’s part is what they call True Sight technology. One problem with the curved lenses that are so useful for keeping wind, sticks and rocks out of your eyes is that they tend to have more distortion than a more planar lens. The sharper the curve of the lens, the more distortion you get. However the more curved a lens is (to a point), the better it protects the eye from debris, wind, and UV rays. What to do? Giro claims you can have your cake and it too! The company doesn't go into a lot of technical detail, but they say they have vastly increased the distortion-free field of vision when compared to other sunglasses on the market. I have to agree that they are superbly clear and distortion free, but I don’t know if it is better than some of the other leading glasses out there.

Despite my dislike of polarized lenses, I plan on reviewing a pair of Giro’s with the Zeiss certification in the future. The Semi is definitely one of the nicest sunglasses I have worn. It’s easy to forget you are wearing them, and that is truly high praise for anything that goes on your face. I would like a bit more detail from Giro on their website about their glasses and the technology that goes into them, as what is there is a bit vague. I personally would like to see a red tinted lens that lets in more visible light than my Rose/Silver (23% light transmission) do, or perhaps a photo-chromatic lens option. The rose/silver, like many red-tinted lenses is designed to provide good contrast in the varying light conditions that most road and mountain bikers encounter on every ride. Giro does offer a number of different frame/lens color options for each style, but as I mention above, the lenses are only interchangeable on the Haviks. Considering their competition they are well priced between $90.00 and $170.00 depending on the model and lens.

Charlie

www.giro.com

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bikefix Exclusive Review: Topeak PrepStand Pro repair stand

While most of us probably started working on our bikes upside-down in the garage, leaning against a workbench or hanging by the saddle from a hook in the basement ceiling, there comes a point when a proper bicycloe repair stand is very helpful. There is a wide range of models available, from inexpensive collapsable models through stable portables to professional models that weigh close to 100 pounds. While the best-known models come from Park and Ultimate, there are a number of unique and viable models available from other companies- including Topeak.

My positive experience with Topeak's Dual Touch bike storage played a large part in my decision to try the company's PrepStand Pro. The two model PrepStand line feature a collapsing tripod base, much like the portable speaker one sees at concerts and no doubt informed by Ultimate's successful use of a similar design. Solid composite joints and aluminum quick-release levers connect the aluminum tripod base to a 2-part telescoping 6061 aluminum trunk. The jucntion that supports the clamp arm is meaty aluminum, as is the arm itself. What sets the $280 PrepStand Pro apart from the less expensive ($215) PrepStand Elite (and from other repair stands on the market) is the digital scale integrated into the arm. At the end of the arm is a fairly simple clamp that can be closed around a wide variety of tube shapes by turning a small-ish knob. It all packs into an included 46x7x7 padded carry case, which is convenient for those without a dedicated workshop or for traveling to friends' or races.

While very stable when set up, the long legs that give the 12lb PrepStand its solidity can be a bit of a hassle. The 120 degree spacing of the legs mean that, when two are aganist a wall, the third tends to get underfoot. My biggest complaint, however, comes from the clamp. The clamping threads seem to have an intermediate thread that is neither quick to close nor provides as much clamping force as a 30lb mountain bike really calls for. A larger knob and/or some sort of free spinning "suicide knob" would no doubt help (though it may compromise portability). Also, while the clamp can be rotated 360 degrees, the serrated faces that prevent the clamp from moving once in place make adjusting a bike's angle difficult- the adjustment knob must be backed out quite a bit and the bike's weight supported while being repositioned. Compared to friction adjustments on competing stands, this can be a bit of a hassle. Collapsing the PrepStand, on the other hand, is a breeze, and it takes well under a minute to collapse the stand and place it in the carry bag, which is nicely made and fits very well.

The scale, which is located on the clamping arm, is handy, although with a 20g resoulution, it seems better suited to satisfying curiosity than anything else. I can't speak to its accuracy, but do use it from time to time (which QRs are lighter?), and complete bikes can be easily weighed by hanginf them from the nose of the saddle.

It's been a few years since I purchased my PrepStand Pro. In that time, it has proven both reliable and sturdy. Because its ease of use isn't quite that of competing stands, I probably wouldn't seek it out. The materials used and most of the design are top-notch, though, and with a revised clamp and rotation mechanisms, though, it would be one of the nicest and most compact repair stands I've seen.

marc

www.topeak.com

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bikefix Exclusive Review: Shimano SH-M225 shoes

Shoes are hard. They're a complicated product that sees a huge amount of abuse, especially on the mountain bike. They have to fit and support the second strangest part of the human body (the foot) while transmitting massive amounts of weight and power through a cleat not much larger than a quarter. They have to be stiff enough to ride in all day while comfortable enough to walk in when you've broken a stem or used your last tube. The lugs have to be grippy, durable and shed mud without interfering with the pedal or weighing anything. They should be adjustable while riding and well ventilated but protect the foot from rocks, stumps and cacti. They should probably look good and be reasonably priced, too.

Almost three years ago, I picked up this rather flashy pair of Shimano SH-M225. Well, they were flashy at the time, but after 140 weeks of 4-6 rides per week they're looking rather broken in. I was attracted to the stiff (but light) carbon fiber sole plate, the easily-operated ratchet and (of course) the fit. Compared to other mid-range ($150-225) shoes I tried on, they seemed like a great value at $180. Two (carbon fiber-look) Velcro straps snug the forefoot and a wide, slightly padded strap is secured with an easy to grasp ratchet (shared with several other Shimano models). While I have my suspicions about just how much carbon fiber extends beyond the cleat window, the rest of the sole is made of a hard, stiff plastic, over which is co-molded a softer translucent tread material. The perimeter of the shoes is made of a tough rubberized textile and there is a very stiff (and somewhat deep) molded heel cup at the rear. There is a fair amount of mesh over the forefoot and between the straps, but there are certainly better-ventilated shoes out there.

I have normal-width size 9 1/2 feet, but they're oddly small in cross section. As a result, I have trouble finding a shoe that can fit well over the top of my foot. Most companies' ratchets bottom out before becoming snug. Sensing my frustration, Shimano saw fit to provide threaded inserts in two positions for mounting the ratchet itself to the shoe. The upper would probably work well for both folks and the lower works well for me and some women I've noticed wearing these.

While (at about 800g for the pair) these aren't the lightest shoes around, I have to think that the M225s are some of the sturdiest. I use these shoes off road for epics and single speed racing, for my daily commute and for 50+ mile road rides, all with Crank Brothers Eggbeater pedals. All together, I have between 7,500 and 10,000 miles in these shoes and have very few complaints. The shape of the shoes happens to work well for me. While I couldn't compare them to a glove, the deep heel cup and secure straps do a good job of holding my feet in place without hot spots. The shoes do tend to loosen up after a couple of stream crossings, but that's why the ratchet is there- it's easy enough to reach down and snug them up without stopping, even off road. While waking on hard New Mexico sandstone has worn the front lugs down to the harder plastic inside, overall the treads are holding up very well. The rubberized textile and synthetic leather, while scuffed, has yet to be punctured and I couldn't find a seam that's come loose. Riding in New Mexico, where hard rock is far more common than mud, I haven't been using the hard toe studs but wouldn't mind another (grippy) lug under the toe for short scrambles but don't know that I've fallen for the lack of one.

Unfortunately, nothing is perfect and I do have a couple of complaints. First of all, I don't like the supplied Shimano insoles one bit. I had forgotten how bad they were until I wore out my inexpensive aftermarket insoles and threw them back in before a 50mi road ride. Within 10 miles my feet were tingly and within 20 they were numb. That hadn't happened in ages, even during two 24-hour races. I took them back out and the problem immediately went away. Secondly, I've managed to wear out the fabric and blow all of the stuffing out of the heel cup. It's not uncomfortable (yet), but the rest of the shoes probably have another year in them, and it's a shame for one aspect to be so much worse off than the rest of the shoe. Several years ago, I had a pair of shoes with leather (or synthetic leather) inside the heel cup. I never noticed them allowing my feet to move around and that would be my number one request for the next version of these shoes. Over the past few years, I've munched a couple of ratchets. Given the miles that these have seen and the fact that I'm using the lower mounting position, I'd have expected them to have died earlier, to be honest. Happily, they gave plenty of warning and are shared between several Shimano models. Any bike shop worthy of the title should be able to order replacements for around $10. The stiffness of the sole means that the M225s are more riding than hiking oriented, so if your regular rides include a large amount of hike-a-bike, there may be better options. On the road, the soles (and pedal choice) will put some folks off, but they look Pro enough that folks may not even notice (until you win the post-ride sprint to the refreshments).

A quick note about pedal choice: Shimano are under no real obligation to make their shoes work with Crank Brothers' pedals, but I feel that these do. However, if you let your Eggbeater cleats go too long between replacements, they will wear and allow the pedals' bars to rub on the shoes themselves (something that Time's ATAC pedal bars are actually designed to do). This will wear little grooves into the shoe in front of and behind the cleat. So far, though, the carbon fiber seems to be taking it just fine (I've actually snapped other shoes' soles after wearing grooves into them with Times). Crank Brothers now make a $10 set of steel shoe protectors that sit between the cleat and shoe to prevent this, which I'll be reporting back on when I go to new shoes.

All in all, the SH-M225s are a great shoe. If they fit, I can't think of any reason not to recommend them. They're stiff, comfortable and pretty darn bombproof. The SH-M182s are very similar, but seem only to save about $20 and forego the carbon fiber shoe. The company does make a near-$300 heat-moldable shoe, but it's quite different and looks to be more race-oriented.

marc

bike.shimano.com

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bikefix Initial Review: Maxxis Courchevel tire

Tire choice is amazingly important part of how any bike rides. With different weights and rubber types, tires can make a bike feel slow and clumsy or fast and efficient, or, in the case of the Maxxis' Courchevel- smooth and “gripy." The Courchevel is a three compound tire with a puncture-resistant Kevlar belt, a thread count of 120, and a respectable weight of 205g. The “Triple Compound” construction enhances cornering grip without compromising straight-line speed or durability. The center strip of rubber is a hard, durable rubber, with the mid-shoulder strip being slightly softer and more tacky, and the high-shoulder strip being very tacky for maximum traction. For the tech-heads the rubber durometers are 62a/58a/50a respectively. These tires have no tread and are smooth.

I replaced a pair of Maxxis Re-Fuse tires (a heavier, but bombproof model) on my commuter bike with the 700x23 Courchevels (the same size as the Re-Fuses) and I was astonished at how smooth they made the bike ride. Bumps that used to make my wrists hurt were transformed into little jolts that didn’t bother me at all, and even bigger bumps like curbs or riding on a gravel road became completely acceptable. Of course, it's twice the price of the Re-Fuse and 50g lighter, so that's not a huge surprise. Regardless, it was a fantastic change and the Courchavel rides very well for a puncture-resistant tire.

The funny thing is that the Courchevels don’t really seem faster that the Re-Fuse’s. They ride better and they grip much better, but they don’t seem much faster. I have no data to back this up- it is just how it feels. They are a bit lighter so they probably wind up a bit quicker, but they have more grip- so maybe it‘s a wash. Anyway, if I don’t get many flats (none so far) it will be a very worthwhile change. The ride is that much better. They are available in gray/black or (for fashionable types) orange/black. They retail for $60.00.

charlie

www.maxxis.com

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bikefix Exclusive Review: Pivot Mach 5

I was in a friend's bike shop the other day while a gentleman, who owned a hardtail, was shopping for a full suspension bike. Like me (and that shop's owners), he claimed to enjoy longer cross country rides in the mountains. Around here that means plenty of climbing and no shortage of techy bits or rock gardens. After the gentleman described his riding habits and favorite trails, the owner suggested a couple of 5in travel bikes in his price range (including a Rocky Mountain ETS-X, which Charlie reviewed a while back). Hearing that, the shopper recoiled, saying that he really didn't need that much travel and was really looking for a 4in bike. That would have been many of us a couple of years ago. However, as suspension designs have evolved, many bikes in the ~5in travel range (front & rear) have become extremely efficient, versatile and light weight- perfect for long mellow rides, trips to Moab and the occasional XC race.

Pivot's Mach 5 is just such a bike. There is a broad spectrum of bikes available with between 4.5 and 5.5in of travel front and rear. Despite it's 5.4in of travel, the Mach 5 sits squarely at the XC end of the spectrum. Looking long, lean and agressive sitting still, the Pivot's ~6.25lb/$1900 frame uses a modified version the DW-Link suspension design shared by Iron Horse and Ibis. As a former Ibis Mojo owner, I was curious to see if the Pivot was simply an aluminum Ibis or something different. Similar to Santa Cruz's VPP, the DW-Link uses a pair of stout links to create an axle path and shock leverage ratio that can be tailored to provide a number of different ride characteristics (such as squatting, not squatting, minimal chain growth, linear spring rates, progressive spring rates, reduced pedal-induced bobbing and combinations thereof). As a moderately agressive 145lb XC rider who likes technical climbing as well as descending, I came into this test having never ridden a virtual pivot bike that I liked. Blur? No. Ibis Mojo? Sort of. Intense 5.5 EVP? Awful. Crazy, eh? Here's why: most virtual pivot bikes are set up to minimize bob. Everyone pretty much admits that bob (rider-induced suspension movement) is a Bad Thing. Everyone, in this case, extends to include suspension manufacturers. Fox's Pro Pedal, Rock Shox's Motion Control and Manitou's SPV are all damping schemes that work hard not to respond to low speed, low frequency inputs. In fact, it's gotten hard to spec a decent quality rear shock that doesn't have some sort of platform damper or aggressive low-speed compression damping. The result, especially for those on the lighter end of the bell curve, are bikes that are somewhat dead feeling- especially over smaller bumps. My Mojo was a great example. It was light and pedaled well and a remarkable bike in a number of ways. However, the rear suspension's reluctance to move over smaller stuff, a slightly flexy rear end and the short (for a Large) top tube left me wanting. If you've just dropped $2k on a frame, there certainly shouldn't be much wanting. "But wait!" you're saying, "I love my Mojo/Blur/Spyder!" Good- you should love your bike. When it comes time to upgrade, though, there are an increasing number of bikes on the market that not only pedal well, but work on both large and small bumps.

Our demo Mach 5 came wearing its mid-range ($4200 complete) XT build kit. Something that I love to see is a build kit with no funny business. No Deore hubs, no cheap cranks, no house brand bars. Shimano's 2008 XT kit is fantastic, with smooth shifting, a cool low-profile Shadow dérailleur and powerful (but controllable) hydraulic discs. Speccing straight XT isn't cheap, but it ensures that no one part on the bike is particularly heavy or will wear out prematurely. A Ritchy Pro bar, stem and seatpost aren't fancy, but are both light and strong while being reasonably priced (the bar is a bit narrow but still comfortable). This bike's parts were clearly chosen by someone who actually rides. The only disappointments are the WTB saddle and grips- after 60 miles in one weekend, my bottom was bruised and my palms tender. Most everyone has their favorites, though, and at this price, your dealer should be more than willing to help you get things tailored to your liking. This was my first experience with Shimano's new (and fairly normal-looking) M-775 XT wheelset. They're a reasonable 1700g, stiff, tubeless and servicable- what's not to like? The hubs feel like they have far quicker engagement than older Shimano hubs and sound like Industry 9's wheels- at 1/3 volume. Very cool. The rear hub did sound a bit like the bearings were dry, though, but I didn't pull it apart to see (it's easy enough to add grease to them and again, your dealer should sort you out there).

Further proving that Arizona-based Pivot guys actually ride (in the Southwest, no less), the tires were a fantastic Kenda Nevegal/Small Block 8 combination. They won't be everyone's choice, but the Small Block 8 in a 2.35in width is both grippy and fast and the pair was great in hard, rocky and loose conditions. They're one step shy of perfect, though, because tubes are lame. On a bike made for high speeds and rough terrain, they're a liability. I went through nearly $30 worth of pre-slimed tubes in two rides. That's more flats than I've had in the past year (and enough to pay for an upgrade to tubeless). I was even running my usual 30psi front/35psi rear (remember that I weigh 145lb). My pack, gloves and shorts are all stained with sealant and I missed an appointment as a result. I know that there are people who hate tubeless tires without even having had to try them, but they'll be kicking themselves when they finally do. Tubes suck. It's got tubeless rims, guys- come on. There are a couple of interesting things going on behind the cranks that are worth mentioning. The E-Type (or very similar) front dérailleur is solidly mounted to the frame, providing nice solid shifts and keeping out of the suspension's way. The bottom bracket cups are pressed directly into an extra-wide shell, something that's becoming increasingly popular on road bikes. This means that you're tied to Shimano in both cases, but these parts are fairly problem free, and the space saved allows for uncompromised pivot placement. If you're planning a road trip to someplace remote, though, carrying a spare front mech may be a good idea.

The bikefix crew got together for a nice mini-epic the other day so that we could swap gear, take some photos and go for a ride. I brought both the Pivot and my personal bike (a Maverick Durance) so that we could swap back and forth during the ride. Over a few days, I put in between 75 and 80 off-road miles between the two bikes. While it's not not enough time to really speak to the Pivot's durability, we managed to get a very good feel for how the bike performs.

In short, the Mach 5 is far and away the best virtual pivot type bike I've ever ridden. Designers Dave Weigle (DW-Link) and Chris Cocalis (formerly of Titus) have done a good job at making a bike that feels snappy out of corners or while climbing without giving up plushness or small bump sensitivity. An initially rearward axle path does a very good job on not only small bumps but the kind of steppy, ledgy stuff that's common both in New Mexico and New England. I was surprised, to be honest, until I had a closer look at the rear shock. While the long-ish stroke (low leverage ratio) was no doubt part of it, Pivot are the first company that I've seen to spec the Fox RP23 shock with the lowest compression damping available. There's a little 3-bar graph on the shock (sort of like the old Cingular logo) that states the amount of factory-set compression damping. The Mach 5 is at 1 (of 3) and it makes a huge difference. Set the sag to about 30% and turn the Pro-Pedal lever to Off and you're done. While there is some occasional pedal kickback, the suspension seems very efficient under torque. It snaps out of corners like few other bikes I've ridden and never feels like it's bogging down while siting. When pedaling out of the saddle, it does get a bit mushy, but no worse than the competition. While I never felt it bottom out harshly, the o-ring on the shock shaft told me that I was using all of the travel. Launching into rock gardens at speed was a blast (explaining the flats?)- the suspension handled successive hits in a very controlled fashion. More than anything else, the rear suspension reminds me of my 2003 Giant VT-1 (a moderate travel single pivot with a linkage-driven Manitou SPV shock) but snappier.

As well as the bike climbed, though, I had a hard time keeping the front wheel down while climbing. Despite the 110mm stem (an odd choice for a medium-sized frame with over 5in of travel) and reducing the TALAS fork to its 120 or 100mm setting, the front end of the bike had a bit of wanderlust on the climbs, which is hard to explain. One indication of how well the rear suspension was working was just how bad it made the Fox TALAS fork feel. I've never been a big Fox fan, but the better a bike's rear suspension works, the worse they tend to feel. The TALAS, in particular, seems to suffer from excessive high-speed damping and/or stiction- when set up soft enough to feel decent, it blows through all 5.5in of travel at an alarming rate. Dan (formerly of Manitou) has been playing with 5wt oil in some Fox forks and they do feel better, but an $800 fork should probably work well straight out of the box. Luckily, Fox have a fantastic resale value, and your dealer may be able to swap it for a better fit for a few bucks- maybe for a new Minute or Revelation. I liked how the bike felt with the fork set at 120mm (with a 70 degree head tube), and extending it to 140 was nice for longer or rougher descents. While the Mach 5 really comes into its own at speed and on sweepy motorcycle trails, it did feel a bit odd in slower situations. Turns at lower speeds required conscious steering rather than leaning or carving. This made more trials-y moves a bit difficult, but with more time on the bike I think that it'd be fine.

While two bottle cage mounts are appreciated (one set on either side of the downtube), the one inside the main triangle is really wedged in there. Forget about running a large bottle, and it can be a bit of a struggle to get a small bottle out of the cage while riding thanks to the knobs on the shock. Some sort of alternative side-entry cage might be in order if you'd like to keep your bottle out of the path of logs and/or manure. All in all, the Mach 5 is an impressive enduro bike. It pedals well and has the ability to compensate for some spectacularly poor line choices. It rewards the rider for carrying speed, which is a blast. $1900 for a Taiwanese made boutique frame isn't unheard of, but it could be a hard sell against the arguably sexier Ibis, which comes with an XT kit, Easton carbon bar and seatpost (but cheaper Easton non-tubeless wheels) for the same money. If you're in the market for an all-around bike or frame, though, the Mach 5 is certainly worth a demo. The Pivot is, put simply, the bike that I wanted the Mojo to be. I'm not going to rush out and sell my current bike, but if I were in the market, it would certainly be on my short list.

marc

www.pivotcycles.com

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bikefix Exclusive Review: Saris CycleOn Pro bike rack

I haven’t owned a bike rack since about 1992 and it was such a piece of crap that I haven't owned another since. Times have changed and my need for more bike-carrying capacity has grown. I talked to a number of friends about their recommendations and Saris' CycleOn Pro came out the winner. I ordered the rack, and had a 2in receiver hitch installed on my truck.

When the rack arrives it requires some assembly. I hate any kind of assembly, but it wasn’t too bad and I had it done and installed on the truck in less than 30 minutes. The rack is sold with a locking hitch-pin (to lock it to the vehicle) and a cable style lock for the bikes (to lock them to the rack and/or vehicle). While the base CycleOn and CycleOn Pro will hold two bikes, I had ordered the additional 2 bike add-on so I could now fit a total of 4 bikes behind the truck. Crap. I forgot about the spare tire. I was down to 3 bikes and now the rack didn’t fold up and out of the way when not in use as it's supposed to. A quick search around town talking to the “experts” lead me to believe that there was no way to extend the receiver out; or that the shortest extender I could buy was 18 inches long- far longer than the 5 or 6 inches I needed. After being generally annoyed for a bit, a friend recommended an Internet search. 1.38674 seconds later I found a 7 inch receiver extension and ordered it about 2 minutes after that. I believe in supporting your local shops but our local U-Haul and trailer shops had no clue. Sometimes the Internet is the better way.

The Saris allows one to put the entire bike on the rack without taking either tire off. A simple but strong arm swings up and ratchets down on the front tire. Saris claims that it touches no part of the bike other than the tire so there is no rubbing or scuffing between rack and bike, or between bike and bike. Overall it works as advertised, but (and it is a BIG butt), the rack does not like SRAM derailleurs. This is upsetting to me because I like SRAM XO derailleurs and most of my bikes and my friends’ bikes have them. The arm that holds the bikes in place protrudes into the space that the XO derailleur would like to have. So you either turn the bike backwards in the rack (which is probably not recommended and creating new problems) or you tilt the bike a bit to get the arm lock into place, and then let the pressure of the locking arm push the derailleur against the previous bike’s locking arm- so much for no scuffing (not to mention the possibility of breaking a rear mech). Even more frustrating is the fact that it's such a simple fix. The lock arms are unnecessarily thick where the plastic lock mechanisms are and the SRAM XO only needs about 4-6 mm of extra room- Hell, I may well just Dremmel away at the plastic until it fits.

Since I am on a rant, I might as well mention that the bike trays that the tires fit in are perfectly parallel. This means that the handlebars of every other bike are in exactly the same spot. Why couldn’t they make the add-on trays slightly angled in the opposite direction- then the bars would be staggered slightly. Sometimes saddles get in the way of the bike next to them but that was expected and is easily fixed too by removing the seat post or rotating it 180 degrees in the seat tube).

The Saris is well-built however, and will work for a lot of bikes, but the add-on creates some issues and the SRAM thing is annoying in the extreme. The moral of this story and my advice to you is: try before you buy. Of course, you now know whether this rack will work for you. The CycleOn is available for either 1 ¼ inch or 2 inch receivers. It retails for around $440 for the base rack and another $270 for the add-on.

charlie

~~~

Now, I was one of the ones who recommended the CycleOn Pro to Charlie and feel like I should weigh in. After seeing how poorly my existing roof racks fit my new Saabaru and buying a home with a garage, I decided that it was time to rethink pushing multiple bikes through the air at 80mph for hours on end. After looking around, I decided to go with the Saris for its well thought-out design, American construction and lifetime guarantee. Unlike similar offerings from Thule, the Saris' locking arm doesn't contact the front of the bikes' forks- it locks at a preset angle. Because I'm not a SRAM guy, I haven't had problems with deraileurs rubbing, but bars often conflict with nearby saddles. After hearing about Charlie's problems, I did some experimenting. Whether or not your rear dérailleur hits the arm or not seems to have more to do with the bike's wheelbase than anything else. Charlie and my Mavericks have long-ish wheelbases and my XTR mech has the same problem in the outer position. Other (shorter or longer wheelbase) bikes, including 29ers and road bikes are fine. As Charlie says, try before your buy. Bar conflicts can be addressed to some extent by winding down adjustable-travel forks.

In use over the past three years, the CycleOn Pro has been generally good. The Pro model, over the base $380 CycleOn, adds a locking cable and expanding tongue. The cable is nice enough and keyed to match the hitch pin lock, which is handy. While the expanding tongue (the square tube that goes into the receiver) is nice, it won't keep the rack from bouncing around without a stout receiver. The 1 1/4in receiver that U-Haul sells for Subaru Imprezas isn't particularly stout. On another, with a better receiver, there is almost no rack movement, even without the using expanding tongue. If you have a fairly solid receiver hitch (like those that come on many SUVs) and aren't planning on carrying more than two bikes, I'd recommend saving the $50. If you have a suspect aftermarket receiver, you'll need all the help you can get.

Because the rack is removed so easily, I tend to leave it in the garage when not in use. When on the car but not in use, it does fold upright very easily, though this can restrict trunk/hatch access. After opening my trunk into the arms a couple of times, I stretched old tubes over them to keep prevent scratches. On the road, you can keep an eye on your babies. The roof rack wind noise that can render sunroofs useless is gone and fuel economy is much improved. The likelihood of hosing your bike/rack/roof by plowing into a garage or basketball hoop is greatly reduced as well. Obstructing your license plate with bicycles will attract the unwanted attention of Utah's Finest, but if you're nice and not drunk or high they may let you off with a verbal warning.

On cars with low exit angles (lots of rear overhang), the rack will hit the pavement (or dirt) from time to time. My knob for the expanding tongue is broken and the bottom of the rack pretty chewed up but still performing admirably. The rear wheel holders aren't designed to accommodate deep section aero rims, but 29ers fit fine. Overall, I have to say that the CycleOn is one of the better thought out and built racks that I've seen. Not cheap, but start adding up the cost of roof rack components and you'll get there pretty quickly. For $270, the Saris Thelma looks awesome but isn't 29er friendly.

marc

www.saris.com

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