Showing posts with label bikefix picks. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bikefix picks. Show all posts

29 June 2008

bikefix Exclusive Review: Mavic Crossmax ST Disc wheelset

Good, functional products really don't make for great reviews, do they? Much like people watch Nascar for (I imagine) the crashes, people tend to like reviews that expose flaws- after all, nothing is perfect. That said, while it makes for interesting reviews, I certainly don't want equipment drama while out on the road or trail. While Mavic is known for making fantastic rims, their complete wheels have a bit of an uneven history around here. The company's hole-free tubeless rims are very strong and don't resort to a non-structural band-aid to be tubeless compatible. The aluminum spokes are cool looking but can be pricey to replace and difficult to find and the hubs... well, the hubs have required frequent service in our experience. The problem, it seems, stemmed from dissimilar material hardnesses in the cassette body, causing Part A, combined with fine desert grit, to eat Part B with alarming speed. Regular cleaning and maintenance could prevent this, but few have the discipline.

When Mavic announced their 2007 line, a number of improvements were trumpeted. Hub durability was reportedly improved. Effective flange spacing was increased, for better lateral rigidity. One wheel, in particular, stood out. The Crossmax ST was billed a a wheel designed to "withstand the rigors of true mountain bike riding." At 1650g/set, it was about as light as the previous year's race-oriented Crossmax SL, but oriented toward owners of newer 5/5 bikes, who spend as much time climbing as they do descending. At $750, they aren't cheap, but with top-end wheelsets now approaching $1,000, they're starting to look reasonable. Given the number of rock dings in my thin walled first generation (paired spoke) Shimano
XTR wheels, I decided to give the STs a go.

For French wheels (Mavic is based on the shores of Lake Geneva, just down the hill from Les Gets & Morzine), the Crossmax STs are pretty reserved, appearance-wise. Mostly black, there are small logos printed on the rim and a couple of spokes. Because the inner wall of the rim has to be pretty meaty to support the externally threaded spoke nipple, that area has been traditionally overbuilt on Mavic wheels. The company's (no doubt expensive) Inter-Spoke Milling addresses this, removing material from between the spokes and (in this case) leaving a supporting ridge that gives you some idea of just how much material was there (see top picture). Removing material at the rim will have the greatest effect on acceleration, and the company has found a way to do this without sacrificing nipple mounting or overall strength.

Because the nipples are captive on the end of the spokes, the hubs have slotted mounting holes for the spoke heads. This fact contributed to my first problem with these wheels. On a hard(ish) landing, my 160lb load (fully loaded) managed to detension a spoke so completely that it popped out of the hub. Thankfully, as a disc wheelset, I was able to ride out despite a sizable wobble. When I got home, I used the provided proprietary spoke wrench to loosen the spoke, slot it back in place, and true the rim, which was in very good shape considering. Once the wheel was true and round, I added 1/2 turn to all of the spokes on each wheel. The additional tension has stopped any other spokes coming loose and doesn't seem to have had any additional impact. In the 10 months since, they haven't seen (or needed to see) a truing stand.

Since then, the Crossmax STs have been exposed to out local rocky desert terrain, Moab and Portes du Soleil trips and been mounted on several test bikes, with no complaints. The freehub doesn't engage as quickly as some others on the market, but unless you're a trials rider, it really isn't an issue. Every once in a while, it feels like a couple of the pawls don't quite engage properly and slip a few degrees. It makes a godawful noise, but that's about it- it happens only rarely and doesn't seem to have harmed the hubs. After 11 months' use, I decided to pull the cassette body apart to look for damage, dust, broken pawls or broken teeth. Much to my surprise, they inside was clean and pristine. On my local shop's advice, a few drops of mineral oil were added, the wheels reassembles and they were back on my bike within 30 minutes. The sealed cartridge bearings are still running as smooth as they did when new, though their replacement looks to be pretty straightforward. The wheels come with Mavic's excellent composite quick-release levers, which are lightweight and positive in their action.

Complaints? I have a handful. The black paint (particularly on the spokes) is flaking off more than I'd have liked (though it's not too bad), and anodizing would be inexpensive, lighter weight and more durable (though more prone to fading). Also, the axle end caps could do with some knurling or a knurled steel insert (as on WTB's hubs). On occasional awkward landings, the wheel can slip ever-so-slightly in the dropouts, causing discs to rub. The provided computer magnet is a nice bonus, as are the tubeless valve stems. For 2009, the Crossmax ST will be largely unchanged, save for a 15mm through axle taking advantage of Shimano & Fox's open standard. Finally, for an additional 8% of the purchase price, Mavic's MP3 (Mavic Product Protection Plan) offers a 2 year no-fault warranty, which is a heck of a deal for the less careful among us.

All in all, the Crossmax STs are impressively light, 'trail' wheels. They could use a bit more spoke tension out of the box and some minor detail refinement, but these make good use of Mavic's extensive wheel building experience. For riders looking for a light, strong tubeless-compatible wheelset, these would be a great place to start.

marc

www.mavic.com

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19 June 2008

bikefix Exclusive Review: Origin8 Propulsion handlebar tape

A regular reader might be forgiven for thinking that we had some sort of connection with J&B Importers for our reviews of their Origin8 stuff. Sadly, we don't. It just tuns out that the company is selling some stuff at the moment that works very well and is reasonably priced. After good luck with some of their finishing kit and hearing good things about their frames from bike shop guys, I've been taking a closer look at stuff from the brand when I come across it.

This winter, when I rebuilt my cyclocross bike as a fixed gear, I decided to replace the awful FSA faux-carbon bar tape. At the bike shop, I was balking at $18 for Cinelli cork tape and noticed a box of Origin8 bar tape hanging down near the floor. Popping the box open, I found a nice, spongy foam tape that seemed both cushiony and stretchy. The box claimed that it got tacky when wet, which would be a pleasant change from the FSA tape I had been using. At $10, it was worth a shot.

Six months later, the Origin8 has become my favorite bar tape. Ever. It went on easily (the stretchiness helps there) and has stayed exactly where I put it. No slipping in the bends, no peeling at the edges. The material, which I doubt is natural cork, is holding up very well. It is spongier than cork tape and has proven more comfortable in the same amount of space- no double wrapping or gel pads needed (or desired) here. It certainly isn't as slippery when wet as the Fi'zi:k Microtex tape on my road bike, which I appreciate more the hotter it gets. Since buying the first box, I've only noticed it in one local shop, but if you have the time, it may be worth putting in a special request.

marc

www.origin-8.com
www.jbimporters.com

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01 June 2008

bikefix Exclusive Review: Ritchey Snap-On Rim Tape

It's not a bad idea to have a quick look at a wheel's rim strip whenever a tire is replaced. Rim strips that have cracked, moved or gone AWOL can be the cause of persistent mystery flats that have the capability to drive most home mechanics crazy. For years, there have been basically two options for rim strips. The first (and widely preferred) is a dense adhesive-backed cloth tape. The second has been the plain rubber strip that's protected Huffy tubes since time began. On a modern double-walled rim, the rim strip's function is to prevent the tube from pushing into and getting cut on the hole in which the spoke nipple sits or on the spoke or nipple itself. The rubber rim strips are wholly unsuited to decent quality rims (appropriate only for single-walled rims), making cloth tape the only choice for quite some time. However, the adhesive on the cloth tape can dry out or its life shortened by moisture, allowing the tape to shift and expose holes. If looked after, though, the standard Velox rim tape can work quite well.

About 5 (maybe 10) years ago a third option started popping up. Snap-in rim strips are loops of hard plastic or densely woven nylon that literally snap into the rim bed. They span the entire width of the rim and stay in place quite well. However, the molded plastic ones were a pain in the ass to mount or remove, and folks often forgot about the valve hole (which needs to be aligned during installation. Traditionalists (myself included) scoffed and went back to their Velox. At some point, I built a wheel and needed rim tape. The local shop was out of Velox and (very much wanting to ride my new wheel) I reluctantly took a $4.00 gamble and went home with a set of Ritchey Snap-On Rim Tape. The Ritchey tape is made of a densely woven nylon material. The 700c size fills the entire width of an Open Pro, Sun ME14A, Mavic Cosmic or similar road rim, so can't shift and expose the holes. Drop an allen key or philips screwdriver through the tape and rim's valve hole (to maintain orientation) and snap it on. It's reassuringly snug but stretches enough that installation isn't a battle: probably a 30 second operation altogether.

How's it work? On several bikes over several years and thousands of on- and off-road miles, I've never had one fail. They're probably a shade lighter than the Velox, but the ease of installation and greater longevity are more valuable. At $4 for a bike's worth, they're half the price. They're also re-usable, particularly important for those fancy (aggravating) road wheels with hidden nipples. Ultimately, it's a product that does its job better than the competition at a lower price. What's not to like?

marc

www.ritcheylogic.com

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20 May 2008

bikefix Exclusive Review: Origin8 Propulsion 3D Lite stem

Last winter, when I bought a Syncros Vector Carbon handlebar for my 29er, I needed to find a new, oversized (31.8mm clamp) stem to tie it to the bike with. The Syncros is a wide bar, and it was going on a mountain bike, so I needed something stiff, but the single speed being my race bike, I also wanted to keep the weight down. Having survived the 1990s with only a broken handlebar (I couldn't afford all that cool superlight stuff that ended up breaking), I am a bit wary of lightweight compnents- especially in the cockpit, where their failure can be pretty painful.

When they came out in 2006 or 2007, Ibis' mountain and road bikes came with a very nice looking (and surprisingly light) Ibis-badged stem. My Mojo came with a 110, which was unfortunately too long and was swapped with another 100mm stem before I left the shop, but I was impressed that Ibis had snuck a very nice, light component in where most companies would save a few bucks and mount a bit of an anchor. Roll things forward a few months and I'm back- looking for a stem to go with my new handlebar. They guys at the shop have found the Ibis stem under another name, and it's $40. Origin8 seems to be one of distributor J&B Importers' house brands (along with Cayne, who's Uno fixie we reviewed last fall). They have a range of far-Eastern components, frames and accessories that are reasonably priced and range from pretty a chintzy Maverick Speedball knockoff to full carbon frames and bars. I am skeptical of components that seem too light for their price (light, strong or cheap- pick any two), but side-by-side, the Origin8 Propulsion and Ibis stems were clearly the same, down to the torque markings. As every engineer and specifier knows, gram-for-gram, forging aluminum is one of the strongest ways to make a part. Unlike CNC (or conventional) machining, the process aligns the metal's grain with the desired shape. Skillful design and analysis can yield some of the strongest parts available at a given weight, and with volume the price can be quite reasonable (which is why Dura Ace and XTR cranks are still aluminum). The Origin8 Propulsion stem is "3D Forged" and shot-peened, which serves to harden the surface of the metal and prevent small cracks from starting (and thus from becoming big cracks).

Two $20s later and the deal was done. I have hundreds of miles on the Ibis-branded stem and have to say that I'm impressed. Noticeably stiffer than the $225 Deda Mag00 on my road bike and, at 120g, the Origin8 is just as light. The dual handlebar clamps skirt many bar companies' 4-bolt stem prohibitions and hold the Syncros well, without friction paste. The torque specifications on the hardware shows that some thought went into things (or at least that plausible values were pulled out of someone's ass), and I haven't heard of any breakages on the Ibises which are all over Albuquerque now (being hammered much harder than my single speed). If you're looking for a new 31.8mm for a road or XC mountain bike, I'd have to say that you really can't go wrong with the Propulsion.

marc

www.origin-8.com
www.jbimporters.com

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15 May 2008

bikefix Exclusive Review: Selle Italia XO Trans Am saddle

Why pay more? Every once in a while I stumble across a product that far exceeds the expectations generated by its modest price tag. Sometimes, corners have been cut but they're corners you don't really need. Sometimes, though, no corners appear to have been cut and one can't help but assume that the price was a mistake. This here saddle is an example of the latter.

Several years ago, a girlfriend picked up a Giant Cypress SX sporty hybrid. It was a cool bike for sure, and it came with a cheap OEM version of Selle Italia's XO Trans Am saddle. An avid mountain biker, she loved it and we ordered another for her mountain bike. The $40 aftermarket version of the saddle has steel rails, medium padding, a medium width, a 'taint-saving chasm down the center and is made of a nice durable synthetic cover. Doesn't sound particularly performance-oriented, does it? Somehow, I ended up riding the saddle a few times and was blown away. The multi-density foam is comfortable without being squidgy with an unobtrusive shape and no sharp corners anywhere. Oh, and it weighs came in at 270g. And is made in Italy.

Now, you can spend a lot of money on a saddle that is a lot less comfortable that weighs just as much. For reference, the $200 Aliante Carbon comes in at 259g. Nor the Aliante is a very good saddle. I have the "Gamma" version on a couple of bikes. If I'm going to spend all day on the bike, though, they don't come close to the XO in comfort. The saddle pictured here has been on several bikes and survived several 24 hour races- so its holding up just fine. What's not to like? Nothing comes to mind. Just be sure to spend the extra $10 or so to get the aftermarket version- the OEM has a vinyl cover that doesn't hold up nearly as well. Everybody's body is different, so trying before you buy isn't a bad idea. Of course, at $40, giving it a go isn't a huge risk.

marc

www.selleitalia.com

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27 April 2008

bikefix Exclusive Review: Shimano SH-M225 shoes

Shoes are hard. They're a complicated product that sees a huge amount of abuse, especially on the mountain bike. They have to fit and support the second strangest part of the human body (the foot) while transmitting massive amounts of weight and power through a cleat not much larger than a quarter. They have to be stiff enough to ride in all day while comfortable enough to walk in when you've broken a stem or used your last tube. The lugs have to be grippy, durable and shed mud without interfering with the pedal or weighing anything. They should be adjustable while riding and well ventilated but protect the foot from rocks, stumps and cacti. They should probably look good and be reasonably priced, too.


Almost three years ago, I picked up this rather flashy pair of Shimano SH-M225. Well, they were flashy at the time, but after 140 weeks of 4-6 rides per week they're looking rather broken in. I was attracted to the stiff (but light) carbon fiber sole plate, the easily-operated ratchet and (of course) the fit. Compared to other mid-range ($150-225) shoes I tried on, they seemed like a great value at $180. Two (carbon fiber-look) Velcro straps snug the forefoot and a wide, slightly padded strap is secured with an easy to grasp ratchet (shared with several other Shimano models). While I have my suspicions about just how much carbon fiber extends beyond the cleat window, the rest of the sole is made of a hard, stiff plastic, over which is co-molded a softer translucent tread material. The perimeter of the shoes is made of a tough rubberized textile and there is a very stiff (and somewhat deep) molded heel cup at the rear. There is a fair amount of mesh over the forefoot and between the straps, but there are certainly better-ventilated shoes out there.
I have normal-width size 9 1/2 feet, but they're oddly small in cross section. As a result, I have trouble finding a shoe that can fit well over the top of my foot. Most companies' ratchets bottom out before becoming snug. Sensing my frustration, Shimano saw fit to provide threaded inserts in two positions for mounting the ratchet itself to the shoe. The upper would probably work well for both folks and the lower works well for me and some women I've noticed wearing these.

While (at about 800g for the pair) these aren't the lightest shoes around, I have to think that the M225s are some of the sturdiest. I use these shoes off road for epics and single speed racing, for my daily commute and for 50+ mile road rides, all with Crank Brothers Eggbeater pedals. All together, I have between 7,500 and 10,000 miles in these shoes and have very few complaints. The shape of the shoes happens to work well for me. While I couldn't compare them to a glove, the deep heel cup and secure straps do a good job of holding my feet in place without hot spots. The shoes do tend to loosen up after a couple of stream crossings, but that's why the ratchet is there- it's easy enough to reach down and snug them up without stopping, even off road. While waking on hard New Mexico sandstone has worn the front lugs down to the harder plastic inside, overall the treads are holding up very well. The rubberized textile and synthetic leather, while scuffed, has yet to be punctured and I couldn't find a seam that's come loose. Riding in New Mexico, where hard rock is far more common than mud, I haven't been using the hard toe studs but wouldn't mind another (grippy) lug under the toe for short scrambles but don't know that I've fallen for the lack of one.

Unfortunately, nothing is perfect and I do have a couple of complaints. First of all, I don't like the supplied Shimano insoles one bit. I had forgotten how bad they were until I wore out my inexpensive aftermarket insoles and threw them back in before a 50mi road ride. Within 10 miles my feet were tingly and within 20 they were numb. That hadn't happened in ages, even during two 24-hour races. I took them back out and the problem immediately went away. Secondly, I've managed to wear out the fabric and blow all of the stuffing out of the heel cup. It's not uncomfortable (yet), but the rest of the shoes probably have another year in them, and it's a shame for one aspect to be so much worse off than the rest of the shoe. Several years ago, I had a pair of shoes with leather (or synthetic leather) inside the heel cup. I never noticed them allowing my feet to move around and that would be my number one request for the next version of these shoes. Over the past few years, I've munched a couple of ratchets. Given the miles that these have seen and the fact that I'm using the lower mounting position, I'd have expected them to have died earlier, to be honest. Happily, they gave plenty of warning and are shared between several Shimano models. Any bike shop worthy of the title should be able to order replacements for around $10. The stiffness of the sole means that the M225s are more riding than hiking oriented, so if your regular rides include a large amount of hike-a-bike, there may be better options. On the road, the soles (and pedal choice) will put some folks off, but they look Pro enough that folks may not even notice (until you win the post-ride sprint to the refreshments).

A quick note about pedal choice: Shimano are under no real obligation to make their shoes work with Crank Brothers' pedals, but I feel that these do. However, if you let your Eggbeater cleats go too long between replacements, they will wear and allow the pedals' bars to rub on the shoes themselves (something that Time's ATAC pedal bars are actually designed to do). This will wear little grooves into the shoe in front of and behind the cleat. So far, though, the carbon fiber seems to be taking it just fine (I've actually snapped other shoes' soles after wearing grooves into them with Times). Crank Brothers now make a $10 set of steel shoe protectors that sit between the cleat and shoe to prevent this, which I'll be reporting back on when I go to new shoes.

All in all, the SH-M225s are a great shoe. If they fit, I can't think of any reason not to recommend them. They're stiff, comfortable and pretty darn bombproof. The SH-M182s are very similar, but seem only to save about $20 and forego the carbon fiber shoe. The company does make a near-$300 heat-moldable shoe, but it's quite different and looks to be more race-oriented.

marc

bike.shimano.com

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13 April 2008

bikefix Exclusive Review: Ritchey True Grip V

I know that I'm going to get flamed for saying this, but hear me out. In a given grip style and size, I feel that a Lock-On type grip will be less comfortable than its traditional counterpart. I know that, thanks to wet climates and more aggressive riding styles, people have flocked to Lock-Ons over the past few years. However, adding a hard plastic layer between your hands and the bar reduces the amount of room for good old fashioned cushiony rubber. If installed with an air compressor (no water, spit, or hair spray), old-fashioned grips tend to stay put, too. If you don't have an air compressor, take your bike and nicely ask the shop you buy them from to throw them on- it only takes a sec. Given the trend away from padded gloves for mountain biking, my hands were starting to feel a bit hammered with the Lock-Ons, especially on longer rides, and I don't particularly like the feel of overly thick grips. So, a few years ago, I found myself looking for a comfortable but not too thick grip. After trying a few that didn't really do it for me, I stumbled across the Ritchey True Grip V.


Over the years, I've used a number of Ritchey products. From a Hakkalugi cross fork to the company's original clipless pedals to stems and headsets, Ritchey stuff has tended to be lightweight, unassuming and well thought out (and usually reasonably priced). Ritchey's True Grip V is apparently the fifth version of the company's True Grip (there is now a 6th). It's got a comfortable inverted hourglass shape that fits well in the palm of the hand. The opposing cones that make up the surface of the grip are of a middle-density rubber- not as soft as some grips', but softer than the inner core of the TGV and provide plenty of grip, even in the wet. The shape means that there's only one spot for your hands, but for me, it's a comfy one.

It's been a few years that I've been using the True Grip V, and I've had no reason to try anything else. They stay put on my bars just fine (though we get very, very little rain here) and hold up reasonably well. I'll get a little over a season out of a pair, and when they wear out, they're readily available for about $8. If you're looking for a bit more comfort in a grip without resorting to something massive, the True Grip V would be a great place to start.

marc

www.ritcheylogic.com

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01 April 2008

bikefix Review Update: White Industries Eric's Eccentric ENO hub

As is our standard practice, we contacted White Industries after publishing our review of Eric's Eccentric ENO rear hub. Lynette was kind enough to get back to us with some comments. We wished out loud that we could use concentric mounting bolts on the Eccentric hub. It turns out that it is possible, though you'll need some parts:

You mentioned you would like the hub to be able to convert from eccentric to concentric. We agree but, unfortunately, the interface between the eccentric axle end and the axle will not allow it as there isn't enough room for the larger 8mm bolt. The end user can easily convert by purchasing a new concentric axle and new concentric axle ends. The conversion is a simple matter of changing out the axle and axle ends (bearings are the same size). The cost to convert is about $60.00.

One more note: a caveat to running the freewheel on the fixed side. We do not recommend running the freewheel on the fixed side since the thread contact area is half that of the freewheel side. There is a much greater chance of stripping the threads when only half the freewheel is mated to the hub, of course, we know people do run it as free/free, but it does void the warranty on the hub.

www.whiteind.com

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31 March 2008

bikefix Exclusive Review: Syntace Vector Carbon handlebar

After a season riding Salsa's wide, 10 degree sweept Moto Ace carbon bar on my geared bike, I got back on the single speed and, well, the old MonkeyLite carbon bars weren't feeling so great. I caught myself rotating my hands on the bar to relieve pinkie numbness, and with my half of a 24 hour race rapidly approaching, I bit the bullet and ordered one of Syntace's sweepy (12 degree) low-rise Vector Carbon handlebars.

You don't see much Syntace stuff in shops, and it's really a shame. While their adjustable rise/reach VRO system never quite caught on, they make some really well thought out and built components. Being German (not to stereotype or anything), they're also quite vigorous about their testing. The company spends quite a bit of time on product development, testing and certification and the result are some almost worryingly light stems and bars that actually seem to hold up very well in use. Case in point: their downhill approved stem (the Force 139) weighs in at 128g (90mm length). While folks regularly cast aspersions on carbon fiber components' strength and durability, Syntace has thumbed their collective nose at the naysayers and produced a 190g carbon fiber handlebar that is 4-bolt stem friendly and is certified to the German VR-3 downhill mountain biking standard. Did I mention that it's 680mm wide? With 12 degrees of backsweep? That's right. A 190g, wider than wide sweepy downhill bar made of plastic. Awesome.

While 31.8mm bars are less prone to crushing than standard 25.4mm diameter bars (thanks in part to the lower clamping force needed to keep them from moving), Syntace have gone one better wrapped the clamping area in a titanium lattice to resist even moderately ham-fisted mechanics. The remainder of the bar is made up of a rather nice looking carbon fiber without the cosmetic woven carbon fiber layer that people commonly associate with the material (see the headset spacers in the top photo). In this particular bar, Syntace have chosen not to reinforce the ends with the Ti mesh, so bar ends are a no-no. The rise is almost nonexistant at about 10mm- this is good for people with 29ers or plenty of steerer tube, but not so good for boulevard cruisers or those who've cut a bit too much from their steerer. Unless you're coming from a flat bar, some adjustment will almost certainly be needed. All of this adds up to one stiff bar. Compared to the Salsa or even the industry standard Easton MonkeyLite, there's no noticeable flex- even when hauling on the bars single in a speed stylie. Counter intuitively, the glossy finish seems to hold onto non-locking grips better than Easton's matte finish, and after installing some used Ritchey TrueGrip V's on them with an air compressor, they haven't budged.

As you can see from the pictures, there's a lot of bar here. There's plenty of room for brakes, shifters, lockouts, computers and bells. Unfortunately, though, from its center the bar tapers for quite some distance. This meant that my lights don't have great purchase on the bar no matter where I put them and I needed to move the computer to the stem. As far as complaints go, that's fairly minor (but also easily fixed on Syntace's end). On real stuttery trails, I do miss the visible give in the Salsas, but it's not a huge issue, and they're still better than aluminum bars in that respect (actually, they're better in all respects save price). Finally, with around 60mm of backsweep, you may want to pair them with a slightly longer stem than you're used to to get your hands in the same place. They're priced at about $130, which is comparable to other good quality carbon bars. The hardest part about buying them is finding a pair. My local shop ordered them from BTI, but I had to wait a month while they were out of stock. Ultimately, I'm glad that I did.

marc

www.syntace.com

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16 March 2008

bikefix Exclusive Review: Park AWS-1 & AWS-3 hex wrenches

With spring just around the corner (or so I hope) and more daylight available after work, I find myself drawn to my garage workshop more and more frequently. It's not necessarily that anything really needs doing, but it feels good to be out there, tidying and fettling after dinner. Figuring that I'm not alone in this, we'll be looking at some essential tools over the coming weeks and months.

While changing out some handlebars lately, I realized just how nearly perfect the Park AWS-1 wrench really is. Modern road and mountian bikes feature a whole host of of fasteners. While high-strength Torx fasteners are becoming increasingly common, the vast majority of fasteners on most bikes are of the 4-, 5-, and 6mm hex variety. In fact, I can probably count on my fingers the number of fasteners that aren't one of the three. Park, most mechanics' favorite tool company, realized this and (about 20 years ago) came out with their AWS-1.

It's a simple tool, really (see the picture), but very well executed. Three 2in hex keys point out of a squished plastic puck that fits very well in the hand. The keys (available in stronger straight and versatile ball-end versions) are made out of very high-strength (Bondus Protanium) alloy steel that is very resistant to rounding. As many of us have learned from experience, using a rounded tool is one of the best ways to hose a perfectly good fastener. There is enough length in each key that, should you manage to hose one, you can use your bench grinder or Dremel cutoff wheel to shave 1/4in off and carry on. The arms are long enough to provide enough torque for most any bicycle application, and having all three common sizes in hand is great for common tasks (ie: stem and bar swaps, gear adjustments and so on).

The AWS-3 in the title and pictured above is the little brother of the AWS-1, and has 2-, 2.5-, and 3mm keys (as used on Formula disc brake levers and Rock Shox "we'll use every fastener size we can find" remote lockout assemblies). While there are several similar tools available (from Pedros and others), none that I've seen have been as durable. Do it right and you'll only have to do it once (besides, they're under $10). Since mine were made and purchased (I keep one on the workbench, one in the car), Park have revised the AWS-1 for more strength and better ergonomics. While I don't see mine wearing out, these do have a funny habit of going missing. When this happens, it'll be replaced quickly with the same thing.

marc

www.parktool.com

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10 March 2008

bikefix Exclusive Review: Topeak Dual Touch bike storage

Bikes are great. But they sure a pain to store. One isn't too bad, two can be manageable, but if your household includes 4 or more bikes, they can really start to take over. There are a number of bicycle storage options out there, but none have ever seemed perfect. While the $2 nylon-coated hook can do quite a good job, those require drilling into walls or ceilings (preferably then into studs) and you're usually stuck with bikes coming straight out of the wall. Wheel stands are versatile, but they leaves loads of space above the bike(s). There are a number of leaning storage racks out there, but most aren't particularly flexible. Just leaning a bunch of bikes bikes somewhere is just asking for a messy pile of scratched bike.

Topeak, who make a surprisingly wide range of (usually) well thought-out cycling accessories, have been selling the Dual Touch bike storage stand for several years now. A renter at the time, what drew me to the Dual Touch at the time of purchase were its adaptability to different ceiling heights and non-permanent (no drilling required) mounting. A pair of telescoping tubes extend to press non-marking white suction cup feet against the ceiling and the floor. A foot-operated cam provides a bit of oomph and locks the whole thing in place. That's it. A pair of cradles hold bikes' top tubes. The spacing of the cradles' hooks can be adjusted, as can their angle, so can almost always be set up so that the front wheel doesn't flop around. The cradles can be easily slid up, down and around the tubes and are locked in place with a large knob on the far side (see pictures).

All of the Dual Touch's hardware has proven to be quite well thought out and is built of aluminum or the type of composite typically seen on car roof racks. The hardware is metric and most can be adjusted with a common (for cyclists) 5mm hex wrench. In about 5 years of ownership, the only problem that I have had is the occasional slipping of the quick release that holds the setting of the telescoping tube- though only while setting up the stand and not in use. From time to time, 1/4 turn of the QR's allen bolt helps to put my mind at ease. I also snapped one of the cradle hook bolts once, but a replacement was easy to find. While not cheap at $135, the design, construction and materials are far better than other bike holders I've seen and seems reasonable for something so durable. Thanks to the lighweight materials, each rack only weighs 11lb and easy to set up, store or move. Mine have adapted to a number of apartments and houses without complaint. Additional bike hangers (for freestanding installations holding up to 4 bikes) are available for around $30, but I would probably keep it to lightweight road bikes at that point.

marc

www.topeak.com


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24 February 2008

bikefix Exclusive Review: SwiftWick NaturWool 2Sox

Why review riding socks? Its certainly not something I really saw us doing- everyone has so many, and they tend to be chosen as much for the logo as the sock itself. The other day, though, I realized that after about 16 or 18 months in service, these SwiftWick (formerly WickWear) wool socks almost never make it into the sock drawer. That's because, during the cooler 8 months of the year, they go directly from the drying rack onto my feet.

Regular readers might be forgiven for thinking that I'm not a big fan of wool. It can be fairly expensive, require particular care, and doesn't always perform as well as more modern fabric. For a cool- or wet-weather sock, though, wool is hard to beat. Over the years, I've owned and worn through a number of pair of wool cycling socks. Smartwool's seem to wear out more quickly than I'd like, Sock Guy's have an oddly placed seam that irritates my little toe, and DeFeet's Woolie Boolies are nice, durable and dense but not particularly cozy. That said, I still prefer wool socks from fall through spring thanks to their insulating (even when wet/damp), wicking, and comfort.

I came across these rather fetching Ibis-branded socks the fall before last. To be honest, it was the cool color (I bought a light blue pair first) and reversible cuff that did it for me initially. It turns out, though, that they were really, really comfortable. The 60%/30%/10% merino wool/nylon/Lycra blend is very soft (not at all scratchy), and the fairly complex knit is cushiony on the bottom and heel and dense over the top of the foot (helping to prevent hot spots) and just right around my bony cyclist's ankles. The toe seam is apparently burried somewhere in the fluff, but it's hidden so well that I can't feel it with my toes, even in snug riding shoes. The flip-able cuff that drew me to the socks in the first place is the only disappointment. Flipping them down doesn't really provide for more cooling- rather than a long-ish (3in) but wicking layer, you get a shorter (1.5in) double-layer. As neat an idea as it is, I never really bother.

18 months on, the Ibis Mojo is long gone, but the socks are still being ridden. Not only are the American made SwiftWicks my favorite cool-weather riding socks, but I've been using them for hiking as well and (save for some furriness around the logos) they look like new. That's got to be about 50 wear/wash cycles for each of 2 pair, which doesn't sound like much but is pretty impressive when you consider that many folks' favorite riding shorts may only see 20 or 30 rides per year. The company goes into additional detail about the construction on their website, and the socks are available for custom order, with a 60pc minimum. I'm not sure who other than MBA and Ibis are selling their socks, but they're certainly worth seeking out.

www.swiftwick.com

marc

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23 January 2008

bikefix Exclusive Review: Archer Farms Organic 100% Real Fruit Strips

I know- these clearly aren't bike parts, but we have to make exceptions from time to time, especially when something kicks so much ass. If you're like me, you eat all day long. Could be the regular exercise, could be not-always-thrilling desk job, but I am always snacking. 6:00- breakfast. 10:00- snack. 11:30- lunch. 1:30- apple. 2:30- snack. 5:00- dinner (or pre-dinner snack). 8:00- snack. My days are marked by meals, and I'll be darned if I don't look foreward to each and every one.

It's not purely a mechanical thing, either. I like food that tastes good. Even better if it's good for me. Enter Archer Farms' Organic 100% Real Fruit Strips. Sold at Target for $2.99/10, these are really, really good. Nothing but fruit. Softer than the fruit leather sold at Trader Joe's or Wild Oats, but chewy enough to, um, chew, these are 45 calories apiece and made of nothing but fruit (apples, apple juice, strawberries, etc). The strawberry ones have recently changed and become even more freaking awesome. There are several flavors, they're good for you, and they're cheap. Of course, a fresh apple or orange would probably be better, but they wouldn't keep nearly as well in a glovebox, messenger bag or desk. Yes, you'd burn one in under 5 minutes on the bike, but if you're sitting at a computer or in the car, you could do much worse, and they're good for kids too. Thirty cents!

www.target.com

marc

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22 December 2007

bikefix Exclusive Review: USE Sumo Carbon seatpost

Folks who've spent any time around a machine shop may have noticed that the collets holding drill bits or end mills to the mills and lathes are simple tapered shafts, without keyways or splines. They sit in mating tapers and require very little axial insertion or removal force- the friction around the surface transmits quite a bit of torque. The Morse Taper, invented by the inventor of the twist drill, is a very simple and very effective mechanism.

The folks at USE have been on a quest of late, it seems, to remove seatposts' fastening hardware from the forces that a saddle clamp sees. Why? We've all been on rides in which someone comes down hard on the saddle and it's hardware simply explodes. Some bigger riders we know even carry spare saddle hardware for just this reason. The Alien saddle head was their first in this direction. With it's two (and later one) very tiny M2 bolts holding everything together, it scared the bejesus out of a lot of folks, despite being plenty strong and very light.

Because of my Maverick Durance's laid-back seat tube (not to be confused with seat angle- it's offset from the BB), and a chronically creaky Thomson post, I began to look for an infinitely adjustable, lightweight and strong post.
(The Maverick requires the Thomson to be at the very edge of it's adjustment range, and certain saddles would be pointed slightly upward, in a numbing sort of way.) Again, Charlie came to the rescue with the USE Sumo. The lightweight (40g less than a Thomson Elite) Sumo uses two tapered caps that have grooves for the saddle rails and mate to the post head and a pair of clamps that tie the whole thing together (image, right, from Singletrackworld).

At the time of ordering, I was told by the local shop that Ibex Sports (the US distributor) couldn't get the 30.9 diameter I needed in aluminum, so carbon it is. It's a deceptively simple post. While the large diameter probably counters some of carbon fiber's damping effect, it sure looks sexy and is around 50g lighter than the Al version. The tapers bear the brunt of forces from the saddle and after a second tightening, it hasn't moved or made a peep in eight months' riding. The bolt proved to be about 3mm too long, so a few minutes with a Dremel cutoff wheel and de-burrer fixed that, and my thighs are much happier. If your saddle isn't pushed back on the rails (see image, right), this probably won't be an issue, though. Not cheap at $150 (approximately), but the aluminum version should run less. A small price to pay, though, to keep my todger happy. Altogether, a very clever and well-executed clamp that offers good reliability and excellent adjustability.

use1.com
ibexsports.com

marc

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09 November 2007

bikefix Exclusive Review: Specialized Roll X Pro D2 2Bliss Tire

After about a year without a tire I could really get behind, I got aggressive in asking local riders what they rated for local conditions. It's largely dry around here, with plenty of sharp rocks and a fair amount of sand. I loved Continental's (UST) Vertical, but got sick of cutting new or near-new tires. Geax's BarroMarathon (UST) had promising volume, but wore alarmingly quickly and didn't corner as well as it could have. WTB's ExiWolf 2.3 has been great on my 29er, but isn't available in a tubeless version. Schwalbe's Albert was nice but I wanted something between the narrow-ish 2.1 and massive 2.25, besides, they were pricey.

A number of locals whose opinion I trust recommended Specialized's Roll X. Reasonably fast-rolling, fairly sturdy (but not DH heavy), and (in the Pro tubeless version), a helluva deal at $36.95 at the shop down the road. I threw them on the scale and seem to remember them weighing in at a reasonable 770g.

I picked up a 2.2 (for the front) and an older 2.0 (almost as big as the 2.2) before a big trip during the first week of August. While we had several beautiful days, we also had a fair amount of rain, and I was pleasantly surprised. There was plenty of traction for climbing, and descending grip wasn't jaw-dropping, but more importantly it was predictable.

There's little worse, in my opinion, than an unpredictable tire. Personally, I will happily trade a very grippy tire that lets go abruptly for a moderately grippy one that breaks free progressively, allowing me to make corrections before being dumped on my ass. In most conditions, the Roll X is a very predictable tire. It performs well in loamy, rocky, and wet conditions, due no doubt in part to the soft 60 (shore A) durometer cornering knobs (combined with a 70 shore A centers). The only place where it falls a bit short is in 1in or so deep sand. Less and it's fine, much more and nothing works particularly well. Seeing as no tire is perfect, that's fine by me.

My only complaint is that the cornering knobs are wearing a bit too quickly. Much like the triple-compound Schwalbe Racing Ralphs, I'm finding that the grippy cornering knobs rear faster than the rest of the tread, and quickly become the weakest link. Have a look at the photo to the right. The cornering knobs on the rear tire are pretty severely undermined after only three months of regular riding. Better than some, worse than I'd like. I could happily wring some more life out of the tire if the cornering knobs weren't so hammered (see comments about unpredictable tires, above). Today's ride was probably the last on the rear, though the front is still in good shape and will be shifted aft. Thanks to a $25-off-$75-purchase coupon at the aforementioned shop, I now have a Resolution front and spare Roll X waiting to be ridden.

These were run with about 1/4 cup of Stan's NoTubes sealant (thanks to the cactus and goatheads that litter our local trails) and between 25 and 30psi (less than Specialized's recommended 35psi min). No flats, no sidewall cuts, no knobs rotting from the inside and falling off.

marc

specialized.com

edit: Talked to the local Spez dealer yesterday, and the Roll X has been discontinued for 2008. Replaced, according to them, by the Sauserwind, which is available in... 26x1.8 That doesn't sound quite right- does anyone have any more info?


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05 November 2007

bikefix Exclusive Review: 2007 Formula Oro Bianco

After hearing Charlie rave about these newfangled Formula Oro discs for over a year, I had the opportunity to give them a go. Note to self: listen to Charlie.

I've long been a fan of Shimano's hydraulic disc brakes. I've ridden them on my personal bikes for over six years, including a season guiding and wrenching in the French Alps. Great lever shape, fantastic durability, and modulation that Hayes and Avid couldn't touch. Plus, the mineral oil is relatively non-toxic (ever use baby oil?) and doesn't absorb moisture like DOT fluid can.

The Bianco was designed as Formula's downhill brake [still available, but replaced as a DH brake for 2008 by The ONE]. What that seems to mean is that it has a smaller (one-finger) lever and (maybe) different cylinder geometry than Formula's other Oro's. That said, it's damn light for a DH brake. When weighed without rotors or adapters, our set weighed 30g less per wheel than our '08 XTs with the same length hoses (see confusing weight table, below). A nice thing about Formula's brakes is that they're sold separately from their rotors and adapters. It makes things easier for your local bike shop and means that, if you have a bunch of rotors lying around, you've saved $40 per wheel. It also means that, if you want to run 180mm front and 160mm rear (or 200/180 or 160/140 or whatever) rotors, you can get it. The rotor kits even include the appropriate (post or IS) adapter, and as such are a killer deal. Add to that the fact that Formula's are all made in Italy rather than some sketchy factory in the far east, and the price seems that much more reasonable.

Formula (who I've been told worked with Avid to design the Juicy series) have done an incredible job with these brakes. With 180mm front and 160mm rear rotors, power is almost excessive, but sill controllable (remember, skids are for kids, eh, be nice to your trails). The single finger lever works well with Shimano's trigger shifters and there is a lever clamp available that will take SRAM's XO shifters. The levers are identical (can be run either side), fairly compact, and have easy 'feel' control, which seems to make them spongier/firmer. I left mine about in the middle and haven't touched them since. The polished finish is, in a word, pimp, and hides scratches reasonably well.

Can't all be perfect, can it? Well, no. First of all, there's really not much setting the $240/wheel Biancos apart from the $125 (plus rotor) K18s or $190 K24s, aside from 90g (per wheel), which is probably thanks to the smaller levers and lack of paint. There is also a carbon-levered, kevlar-hosed $305 (per wheel, plus rotor) Puro model, for bonus bling (same weight). Second, I'd just as soon not have to deal with DOT fluid around the house, and that's just what Oro's run on. Shame, too, as that would make these perfect in my book.

For $125/wheel, the Italian-made K18s are near impossible to beat. The Biancos are fantastic brakes, but it's hard to see where the extra $115 goes (they are hand-polished), but they're still competitive with much of what else is out there, and much sexier.

formula-brake.it

marc


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09 October 2007

bikefix Review: Blackburn Mars 3 LED Tail light

Do not look directly into this light- at least not at close range. One of about a billion blinking LED lights for the back of your bike, Blackburn's Mars 3 LED tail light has a few features that means that I now, personally, own three. Every time I've bought one, I've had a look at what else was available and gone, again with the Mars. Here's why:
  • It's bright. From the rear, drivers are exposed to five quite bright red LEDs that are bright enough to walk around with in the dark. Not as fire truck-bright as Dinoette's rechargeable 1W units, but very bright nonetheless.
  • It has side lights. A pair of amber LEDs provide good visibility from the sides (if your thighs don't block the view).
  • The seatpost mount is unusually solid. Using a worm gear-type clamp (think hose clamp) and worm gear-driven angle adjustment, the provided mount holds the belt clip quite solidly, with little chance of the light bouncing out.
  • It lasts forever. On two (supplied) AAA batteries, the Mars 3 is rated to 150 hours blinking.
  • Its cheap. $17 or so at many local bike shops, or less on the interweb (but then there's shipping...).
What isn't there to like? One thing that I've noticed is a major drawback. The balance on the belt clip seems a bit off. If it were mounted a bit higher, the weight of the light would keep it in a better spot for most bag blinky tabs. If you're thinking about using one on your bag (not a bad idea if you leave your bike locked up for any amount of time), try it first. Also, the three tiny screws that keep the back on are a bit fiddly, but given the time between battery changes and good seals, that seems a small price to pay. This has to be the nicest all-around rear LED that I've seen, and if you're in the market, it worth seeking out.

marc

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07 October 2007

bikefix Review: Cateye HL-EL410 light

Fall has arrived- long-sleeve base layers are coming out of the closet and it seems like its staying darker later and getting darker earlier by the day. With that in mind, its not a bad idea to dig out your blinkies, check the batteries, and mount 'em up. Commuting 3-4 days a week by bike is an easy reminder of just how important a decent light can be. Walking around our fair city at dusk this week, I've witnessed two near-misses for completely unlit cyclists. Lights may be geeky, but they could save you a whole lot of pain.