bikefix Exclusive Review: Injinji Performance Tetrasoks

Because we can. I imagine that this simple statement goes a long way toward answering the resounding "why?" that comes when people see these Injinji foot gloves. Erm, toe socks. Injinji compare standard socks to "foot mittens" claiming that they reduce toe dexterity, increase heat and moisture buildup and skin-on-skin friction (all of which are considered Bad Things). So, with the goal of combating these evils, the company has taken advantage of modern knitting technology to build a technical version of the novelty socks that swept the country's junior high schools several years back.

The Performance Terasoks I've been using on and off for almost a year were a gift for someone who knows about my love of all things weird and different. I've worn them casually, for running, for hiking and while riding and have to admit- I think that they're cool. Not because of any real performance benefit, but mostly because of how they look padding around the house without shoes on. Because we're a bike site, though, I'll focus on how they work on the bike.

Because most riding shoes at this point are pretty darn stiff, the Injinji's don't really allow the rider to make much use of their toe dexterity (though I imagine monkeys would love them). While it can take a while (for socks) to pull them on and get the toes in the right spots, they have a nice cozy feel. Inside snug cycling shoes, though, the extra 8 fabric thicknesses can be a bit much, though my Shimanos have enough space in the toe box that things don't get uncomfortable. Contrary to Injinji's claims and despite a fabric that is 70% Coolmax, I feel that the Tetrasok's actually run a bit warmer than normal cycling socks. I have the feeling that this might be the result of having less volume available for air circulation and while it's good to pull moisture from between the toes, it really doesn't have anywhere to go from there. For warm rides with lots of stream crossings, though, they can be nice, without the heat of a full-on wool sock. They're certainly a bit thin for winter use, though. One big advantage, from my perspective, is the complete lack of any toe seams, which can be annoying in any sock (Sock Guy's seem to bug me the most)- if you're particularly irritable in that respect, they might be worth seeking out.

Regardless of their claimed technical merits or my comments above, I bet that most folks will have decided if they would want a pair after seeing the first photo. Me, I think that they're neat and different. They're neither at the top or the bottom of the sock drawer and do see regular use. After probably 20 wearings and washings, they're in fine shape, with no unexpected wear, despite their complexity. They're available at REI (among other places) for $12, which seems to be the going rate for cycling socks these days.

marc

www.injinji.com

btw: “Injinji“ is pronounced (In-gin-ji) and is an African term which describes when a drumming circle reaches a climax, the peak in the performance, when all of the participants are at one with the rhythm, when everyone hits a stride and there is unison among all. Quasi-science meets quasi-spiritualism. Somehow, I still like 'em.

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bikefix Initial Review: Fox Unabomber gloves

About a month ago, I posted an initial review of Fox's carbon fiber-knuckled Bomber gloves. To rehash, they were cool (looking) but hot (feeling) and I felt that I should probably sell them and buy something a bit more desert-appropriate. Thanks to eBay, I was able to send the Bombers on their way to Israel, where some MX kid is no doubt enjoying them right now. To replace them, I had the local bike shop order a pair of the company's lighter Unabombers.

Where the Bombers are really a motocross glove, the Unabombers are a pared-down bike-specific version. Like their big brothers, they have carbon fiber on the knuckles and top couple of finger segments- but here only for the outer two fingers. Rather than large expanses of perforated leather(ette), the Unabombers have far more fabric and large mesh sections on the palm. There is also a woven Kevlar patch at the outside of the palm, apparently a high-wear area. The color scheme is a subdued black/gray, which suits me well. A terry thumb is a nice touch for the sweaty (and snotty) among us and the printed grippy bombs on the first two fingertips make them extra grippy, even when wet.

The Unabombers certainly feel more like cycling gloves than the Bombers. Dexterity and bar feel is slightly better to boot. In use, they are cooler than the Bombers, though not by as much as I would have hoped. The effectivity of the mesh palm is reduced by the grip that usually covers the area and the gray fabric at the back of the hand is actually really warm- it doesn't seem to move moisture well and it's not uncommon for me to look down and see it soaked with sweat (and that's not a particularly sweaty area). Most annoying, though, is the carbon knuckle placement. On most rides so far, the glove seems to be slipping such that the knuckle guard slides down to cover the first finger segment rather than the knuckle. It's not a big deal to readjust (even while riding) but annoying nonetheless. Also, the loosely woven Kevlar palm patch seems to be loosening already (after three weeks), which is a bit worrying this early in the game. Aside from these annoyances, the gloves are generally comfortable- not particularly well padded, but with decent grips, they provide good bar feel and comfort.

I'll carry on using the Unabombers on & off through the summer and well into the fall and let you know what happens. I'm a bit worried about the Kevlar bit, the fabric at the back could be improved and the knuckle placement needs tweaking, but I have a feeling that (with a generation or two of development) these could be a winner. If you can't wait that long, you can find them in shops and online for $43 or so.

marc

www.foxracing.com

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bikefix Exclusive Review: Look Quartz pedals (Marc's take)

Look have had a bit of a hard time with the mountain bike pedal market, haven't they? Despite giving it their best for quite some time, they have failed to gain a real foothold. Most recently, they were selling a pedal using Crank Brothers' excellent Eggbeater design. Apparently, though, that wasn't good enough, so they decided to have another go at things.

I think that I understand what they're shooting for with their new (for 2008) Quartz pedal. No doubt inspired to some extent by Time's immortal ATACs, the Quartz are very similar in concept. A fixed rear retention bar holds the cleat and a sprung front retention bar moves to allow entry and exit. What they're selling here are two things: a large(ish) platform and light weight. The entry level ($99) Quartz pedals come in at 130g apiece, or within 5g of my dirty Eggbeater SLs. There's plenty of room to clear mud, and they look good on paper. the pair pictured here were leant to me by a very frustrated Charlie, so I figured that I'd give 'em a go.

After hearing Charlie's complaints, I decided to read the manual. Not instructions, mind, but a proper (if tiny) multilingual bound book. Unlike Time pedals (where the retention bars interface with the shoe) or Eggbeaters (where the cleat has little wings that rest on the pedal body), the Quartz rely entirely on the lugs of a rider's shoes to act as the interface for pedaling. Sure, the cleat stops the shoes from pulling out of the pedal, but the bulk of the work is done by the lugs. While this approach does provide a large amount of surface area, mountain bike shoes' lug depths are hardly standardized. As a result, in order to allow the cleat to engage while the lugs bear the load, the cleat has to be fairly accurately located through the use of any of a number of included shims.

While the instructions provide a good starting point, there is a fair amount of trial and error involved- not something to do while your riding buddies are waiting. After a couple of tries, I got the shoes to provide support while allowing the cleat to clip into the pedals without too much effort. Time to ride.

The first thing that I noticed was the complete absence of any float. While some like the feeling of being rigidly tied to a pedal, most folks (and their knees) appreciate a few degrees of self-correction. Because the shoe's lugs are the primary interface here and because of the cleat's flat-fronted shape (see photo), though, that's not an option. Not the end of the world, but certainly worth mentioning. Clipping in wasn't as easy as I have become accustomed to, either- it's toe-down and forward only, please, and they really don't self-locate particularly well. Less acceptable, though, is the Quartz's tendency to release with even a small amount of roll. Maybe it's because I'm a spaz, or maybe my excessive application of body English in technical situations, but I found myself popping out of these pedals at some very inopportune moments. Throw a knee out in a corner? Release. Roll a foot while climbing? Release. Land a bit sideways in a rock garden? Release. I haven't had this problem in ten years, and that was usually the result of ATAC cleats worn to the nib. After a particularly exciting no-footed rocky descent in which I was happy to have landed testicle-first on the saddle, I pulled the Quartz off my bike and the cleats off my shoes.

From a design perspective, relying on something that you (as a manufacturer) can't control as the key part of an interface is best avoided. Furthermore, shoes' lugs (especially on mountain bikes) aren't static- they wear over time and that wear will have an impact on the pedals' performance. I'm not sure if Look expect riders to change shims every time their shoes wear 1/2mm, but I'm confident in saying that most won't. Finally, if folks walk a bit funny, their shoes will wear unevenly, resulting in one side being lower than the other, which I can't imagine particularly agrees with this design (and may be part of the problem I had). Canted shoes can work well biomechanically (Specialized cant their Body Geometry shoes to the outside), but that kind of thing should be controlled better than it can be here.

At the end of the day, I can't even come close recommending a pedal that releases so unpredictably, regardless of its other virtues. Things around here are just too technical and the consequences too great. Have a look at Eggbeaters (SLs or better), Crank Brothers Mallets or any Shimano SPD pedals if you're in the pedal market.

marc

www.lookcycle.com

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bikefix Exclusive Review: Look Quartz pedals (Charlie's take)

As some of you may have gathered, I’m a gearhead, and a sucker for a new product- even if it’s just a new take on an existing design. There are a number of good pedals being made: I am personally very fond of the Crank Brothers' Eggbeater pedals, and we all know that the Shimano's SPD pedals work great, not to mention Time's ATAC, which have their fans. Look's new Quartz looks similar to the Time Attack pedal in design, which in turn is similar to a heavier and more complex Eggbeater. I didn’t take a Quartz apart to see if the innards were engineered in a unique way because it doesn’t really matter: the end result is a pedal that has two parallel bars that hold your cleat in place using spring tension- which is a “tried and true” method.

The problems start with the execution. I’ll be honest. I got so frustrated with the set-up of these pedals that I gave them (after 3 rides/tries) to Marc to try, and see if I was just being an idiot. Per the instructions, I used the included shims to get the cleat proud enough to clip into the pedal. The idea here is that the cleat must be accurately relative to the bottom of the shoe's lugs to allow the rider to clip in without too much resistance and to allow the lugs to become part of the interface between the shoe and the pedal. Despite following the directions, one sole was worn enough though that my foot was able to slip right off the side like a hockey puck on ice. Look packages shims of different thicknesses (some of which may be combined) to account for different shoes' lug depths.

Riding the Quartz's on the trail was interesting. The first time out, I was ejecting sideways constantly because I was not aware they needed to be held in by the rubber sole, and I had removed the rubber from my Sidi Dragon MTB shoes for road use. After that ride I went back and read through the directions with the utmost care (which I don’t usually do for pedals), and realized (interpreted) that the pedals need the side rubber lugs that the shoe sole provides to hold them on (Look recommend against using the Quartz with smooth-soled road shoes). The second time was better: one foot did occasionally slip out (that sole is fairly worn) but the other seemed to stay put. However, with this set-up I noticed that my feet didn’t feel flat on the pedals. They felt like they were tipping to the outside and there was a fair bit of vertical play. It’s also possible that these problems might go away with some more trial and error- but at this point I was fed up.

I have never had to pay much attention to my pedal and cleat set-up before. I might be more forgiving if these pedals were a groundbreaking new design that promised me something better once I got the set-up just right, but that’s just not the case. These pedals only promise an already expected level of performance- and that only after a long and annoying set-up process. Why bother when there are many other proven choices that require almost no effort to install and use?

These pedals might work fine once they are “finagled” properly or perhaps the pair I bought was malfunctioning. I simply don’t have the time or patience to sacrifice rides to deal with it. If, like me you like to 'fit and forget,' then you might want to stay away. The quality of the materials and finish was excellent however. They retail for $99.99.

If anybody from Look reads this, please feel free to contact us and set us straight if you think we screwed-up. I used SIDI shoes and Carnac shoes (but only Sidi on the trail). Or perhaps my pedals are flawed. Marc's experience was very similar, though. I will re-test them if we made the mistake.

Charlie

www.lookcycle-usa.com

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bikefix Exclusive P-review: Crank Brothers Cobalt wheelset

Mmm... Pretty wheels... If he can get everyone to stop humping them, Charlie will be getting some miles in and letting us know what he thinks about Crank Brothers' new Cobalt wheels. Let's start by saying that they're even better looking in person...

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bikefix Exclusive Review: Mavic Crossmax ST Disc wheelset

Good, functional products really don't make for great reviews, do they? Much like people watch Nascar for (I imagine) the crashes, people tend to like reviews that expose flaws- after all, nothing is perfect. That said, while it makes for interesting reviews, I certainly don't want equipment drama while out on the road or trail. While Mavic is known for making fantastic rims, their complete wheels have a bit of an uneven history around here. The company's hole-free tubeless rims are very strong and don't resort to a non-structural band-aid to be tubeless compatible. The aluminum spokes are cool looking but can be pricey to replace and difficult to find and the hubs... well, the hubs have required frequent service in our experience. The problem, it seems, stemmed from dissimilar material hardnesses in the cassette body, causing Part A, combined with fine desert grit, to eat Part B with alarming speed. Regular cleaning and maintenance could prevent this, but few have the discipline.

When Mavic announced their 2007 line, a number of improvements were trumpeted. Hub durability was reportedly improved. Effective flange spacing was increased, for better lateral rigidity. One wheel, in particular, stood out. The Crossmax ST was billed a a wheel designed to "withstand the rigors of true mountain bike riding." At 1650g/set, it was about as light as the previous year's race-oriented Crossmax SL, but oriented toward owners of newer 5/5 bikes, who spend as much time climbing as they do descending. At $750, they aren't cheap, but with top-end wheelsets now approaching $1,000, they're starting to look reasonable. Given the number of rock dings in my thin walled first generation (paired spoke) Shimano
XTR wheels, I decided to give the STs a go.

For French wheels (Mavic is based on the shores of Lake Geneva, just down the hill from Les Gets & Morzine), the Crossmax STs are pretty reserved, appearance-wise. Mostly black, there are small logos printed on the rim and a couple of spokes. Because the inner wall of the rim has to be pretty meaty to support the externally threaded spoke nipple, that area has been traditionally overbuilt on Mavic wheels. The company's (no doubt expensive) Inter-Spoke Milling addresses this, removing material from between the spokes and (in this case) leaving a supporting ridge that gives you some idea of just how much material was there (see top picture). Removing material at the rim will have the greatest effect on acceleration, and the company has found a way to do this without sacrificing nipple mounting or overall strength.

Because the nipples are captive on the end of the spokes, the hubs have slotted mounting holes for the spoke heads. This fact contributed to my first problem with these wheels. On a hard(ish) landing, my 160lb load (fully loaded) managed to detension a spoke so completely that it popped out of the hub. Thankfully, as a disc wheelset, I was able to ride out despite a sizable wobble. When I got home, I used the provided proprietary spoke wrench to loosen the spoke, slot it back in place, and true the rim, which was in very good shape considering. Once the wheel was true and round, I added 1/2 turn to all of the spokes on each wheel. The additional tension has stopped any other spokes coming loose and doesn't seem to have had any additional impact. In the 10 months since, they haven't seen (or needed to see) a truing stand.

Since then, the Crossmax STs have been exposed to out local rocky desert terrain, Moab and Portes du Soleil trips and been mounted on several test bikes, with no complaints. The freehub doesn't engage as quickly as some others on the market, but unless you're a trials rider, it really isn't an issue. Every once in a while, it feels like a couple of the pawls don't quite engage properly and slip a few degrees. It makes a godawful noise, but that's about it- it happens only rarely and doesn't seem to have harmed the hubs. After 11 months' use, I decided to pull the cassette body apart to look for damage, dust, broken pawls or broken teeth. Much to my surprise, they inside was clean and pristine. On my local shop's advice, a few drops of mineral oil were added, the wheels reassembles and they were back on my bike within 30 minutes. The sealed cartridge bearings are still running as smooth as they did when new, though their replacement looks to be pretty straightforward. The wheels come with Mavic's excellent composite quick-release levers, which are lightweight and positive in their action.

Complaints? I have a handful. The black paint (particularly on the spokes) is flaking off more than I'd have liked (though it's not too bad), and anodizing would be inexpensive, lighter weight and more durable (though more prone to fading). Also, the axle end caps could do with some knurling or a knurled steel insert (as on WTB's hubs). On occasional awkward landings, the wheel can slip ever-so-slightly in the dropouts, causing discs to rub. The provided computer magnet is a nice bonus, as are the tubeless valve stems. For 2009, the Crossmax ST will be largely unchanged, save for a 15mm through axle taking advantage of Shimano & Fox's open standard. Finally, for an additional 8% of the purchase price, Mavic's MP3 (Mavic Product Protection Plan) offers a 2 year no-fault warranty, which is a heck of a deal for the less careful among us.

All in all, the Crossmax STs are impressively light, 'trail' wheels. They could use a bit more spoke tension out of the box and some minor detail refinement, but these make good use of Mavic's extensive wheel building experience. For riders looking for a light, strong tubeless-compatible wheelset, these would be a great place to start.

marc

www.mavic.com

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bikefix Exclusive Review: Swiftwick Four Ole socks

Following our review of their awesome NaturWool 2Sox last fall, Swiftwick was kind enough to send us some of their socks to try. Marc gave me a pair of the company's Ole Four socks to try. We received them while it was still fairly chilly out and they looked like summer socks, so I put-off testing them until the weather warmed a bit.

I like natural fibers a lot, but I also recognize that man-made materials can be quite excellent too. These socks are an example of that. They are made of 80% Nylon, 15% Olefin [a fiber that absorbs .01% of its weight in water, has won a Nobel Prize and happens to float], and 5% Lycra. They are quite thin overall but have strategically placed thicker areas. They have a number of nice touches like a tighter-than-normal cuff to keep them in place, an almost imperceptible toe seam, and the sock size is knitted into the foot-bed. Best of all, they are also made in the USA baby.

They are very comfortable, but fit quite tightly and at first I was concerned by the tightness, but once riding it was forgotten (and it might even help reduce foot swelling on long rides). After a number of long hot rides I have decided that these socks rock. This sock does what its name implies- wicks moisture away from your skin. I was amazed at how cool and happy my feet were (and its been hot here). The highest praise I can give them is that they felt like they became part of my body. I had to keep looking down to make sure they were still on.

This is absolutely a summer sock, and I would hesitate to use it on epic-length ride at high altitudes because it would offer little warmth if the weather got cold and wet. That is my only caveat in recommending these socks. If cold (though not winter) weather is a possibility, Swiftwick also has a wool blend sock which we like very much too. The Ole is available in three different cuff heights. The company is also geared towards custom socks- these would make some of the nicest we've come across. You can view the range on the company’s website at www.swiftwick.com.

charlie

www.swiftwick.com

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bikefix Exclusive Review: USE Sumo Carbon seatpost

I originally posted my review of USE's Sumo Carbon seatpost last December. As Maverick owners, Charlie and I have relatively few options for seatposts (due to the reclined seat tube)- of which the Sumo is one. Charlie has decided to throw his two cents in as well. Read on...

I have been using the USE Sumo post for a while now. I started using it because my Maverick ML7/5 had such a relaxed seat-tube angle that many posts' heads couldn’t tilt far enough forward to provide a comfortable saddle angle. This is not a problem for the Sumo though; it can accommodate pretty much any bike’s seat angle with its rotating head design.

If you’re thinking of the old USE alien head design, this is not it, nor is it flimsy and temperamental like that post could be. The Sumo uses a single circular machined ring that is then bonded to the carbon post. The two drum-like caps with groves for a seat-rail are clamped against the ring. The clamping is done by one bolt which threads through two small pieces of aluminum, also with rail grooves. As the bolt tightens, the metal drums compress against the ring and the friction holds it in place. It is very simple and it works quite well.

The carbon Sumo is light- 185g in the 400mm length (compared to a Thompson Elite's 228g at 33omm), and is also very tough. I have been riding it for about a year with no damage despite some truly nasty riding from Moab to Colorado to my home state of New Mexico. The Sumo is also made in Aluminum, and Titanium (for road), but the headpiece is the same aluminum design regardless of the shaft material.

I use this post on two different bikes and I really like it. Besides being light and tough, it is simple to adjust. It remained trouble-free for almost 8 months. It’s not a perfect system though. Some seat-rails seem to fit better than others. I had one saddle that wasn’t even close to fitting; it made me wish that there was a industry standard for the saddle rail dimensions.

The only real problem have I had was with the head-clamp rotating backwards after “G-outs” and similar hits of body on saddle. Admittedly, I ran this post for more than half a year without this problem, and it only showed up after I changed saddles and had to use some Moly-Dry Film lube to get the drum shaped pieces to release their hold on the center piece. I then cleaned the head with alcohol but it seems that I messed it up somehow. I took it off, cleaned it out again, and it still moved occasionally. I finally tried to use some carbon assembly compound to add friction, but this made no difference. I then called Ibex Sports (the US USE importer) and they said I could exceed the torque rating etched on the headpiece by a bit. This seems to have solved the problem, but I can’t be sure because (it was only infrequent to begin with) only the most technical trails seem to bump me around enough to cause it. Ibex Sports also mentioned that it is possible to “wallow-out” the drum-like pieces and I may need to replace them. I will try that if it happens again, but so far so good. Keep in mind that this whole issue may be my fault (but it was hard to get those damn drum pieces off).

The carbon Sumo is available in 4 different diameters: 27.2, 30.9, 31.6, 34.9. It has a natural 10mm layback and retails for $140.00 to $150.00 depending on the length.

charlie

use1.com
ibexsports.com

marc

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bikefix Exclusive Review: Castelli "Castelli" jersey

What's just about as good as being fast? Looking fast! I ordered Castelli's "Castelli" jersey this spring because it reminded me of the colors used on Gulf's Porsche race cars from the '60s and '70s (light blue and orange), only reversed. Can't get much faster than that. Of course, coming from Castelli, I expected that the construction would be high quality, the fit a bit slim, and the details pretty well thought out.

Sharing the same cut as several other Castelli Jerseys, the "Castelli" has a 3/4-length zipper. The three rear pockets are pretty standard, but in one sits a nice soft inner iPod or cell phone pocket with a buttonhole (to the inside of the jersey) for a headphone cable. It's a bit small for a wide-ish Motorola Razr, but fits skinnier phones and iPod Nanos very well. While I tend to discourage the use of headphones while road riding, there's no better way to get a good workout in a short period of time than listening to some good music while single speeding, and the player stays put very nicely while riding. Three reflective dots on the leftmost rear pocket are a nice touch if the ride runs unexpectedly long (but no substitute for proper lights come nighttime). The fabric itself is very thin- almost papery and very lightweight.

My jersey was one of the first '08s to come through and felt a bit baggy around the waist. Castelli had a problem with the "gather" on some of their early deliveries, but it's since been addressed. The looser waist may suit baggy short fans, though, so go through your shop's inventory to find one that works for you. Though I ordered expecting Castelli's fit to be a bit snug, it wasn't as snug as I expected. I usually wear a medium, and the Castelli large fits my 145lb frame OK (though not road snug). If you're over, say 175lb, an XL may be in order. Looking at the photos, I'm thinking that a medium would probably be more flattering to my (ahem) aerodynamic biceps- without being too short. As always, try to support your local shop and make use of their fitting room if possible. While the fabric isn't nearly as airy feeling as I expected, it does a very good job at moving moisture away from the body- great under the kind of big pack that big summer rides require. While there are cooler jerseys out there, I find that more open fabrics can be too cool for early morning starts and find that a long zipper makes up most of the difference once the day warms. I've also worn far warmer ss jerseys, so would have to put this one somewhere in the middle of things.

In this case, $80 gets you a very cool looking (in my opinion), American-made jersey with a hidden pocket that makes it perfect for music lovers. The colors are visible in traffic without screaming commuter!- a plus in my book. It wicks moisture very well, and while it isn't as cool as some of the more mesh-y jerseys I've worn, it's all the more versatile for it. I've been wearing it nonstop since I got it.

marc

www.castelli-us.com

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bikefix Exclusive Review: New Mexico

I first came through New Mexico riding the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route back in 2000. We were ready to be done with Colorado and New Mexico seemed pretty mellow by comparison. The northern mountains were far greener and more beautiful than I expected. Riding through the southern part of the state in the middle of August was rough (especially the all-sand days near Pie Town), but still pretty. Several years later, a girl, boredom and the threat of another Boston winter brought me to Albuquerque, where I've been ever since. Coming from New and Old England, the music scene is not really to my taste (and the dating scene horrifying), but at 5500', the weather is pretty darn good (cool at night, dry), the job market pretty strong, the living relatively inexpensive, and the riding awesome. The city is being very proactive about creating and maintaining cycling infrastructure, and more and more pros and pro teams are showing up every winter.

The riding in and adjacent to town is surprisingly good and if one is willing to drive a little bit, there is some fantastic road and mountain biking to be had. Over the past two weeks, the bikefix and Bikeworks crews have done some epic backcountry rides. Over the course of 5 and 7 hour rides (one just outside of Santa Fe), we came across one other rider. After nearly four years here, I still get you haven't ridden there? You've got to check it out! comments. Not all of the riding is for everyone- it can be hard and not all of it is signed, but if you're game, there is an incredible amount to be had.

So, if life brings you this way, bing your bike. I did, and for a stab in the dark, it's worked out remarkably well...

marc

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bikefix Exclusive Review: Fox Flux helmet

The Flux seems to be Fox’s answer to the popular Giro Xen helmet. Like the Xen, it has more protection than a standard XC helmet, a sloped “urban” style back, and models with “tough” looking graphics. These helmets are aimed directly at the "all-mountain" and "trail" bike markets. Since all helmets in the USA are certified by the same test, we don’t really know how much more protective helmets with thicker EPS foam are, but these helmets also tend to have a deeper rear profile- and most certainly offer more protection in the lower head/neck region than a standard XC or road helmets. They also tend to be heavier than typical XC helmets. The Fox is no exception at 390g, which is slightly beefier than a Giro Xen.

The Flux only comes in 2 sizes (a bit annoying): either small/medium or large/extra large. For my big round head, I ordered the latter. The first thing I noticed was it wasn’t as comfortable as either my Xen or my Uvex XP 100. I think it is the shape of the interior of the helmet more than the retention system. The Flux is not uncomfortable but has some pressure points that can be annoying. I have tried different size pads to help remedy this but I can’t get it to feel better. It may just be my head shape. Of course, everybody's head is a bit different and the straps were easy to adjust.

The retention system looks very similar to the Giro and it works reasonably well too. It is a bit more stubborn to adjust than the Giro system, but on the other hand it doesn’t seem to loosen over time like the Giro's can. Despite some serious use and rough handling, none of the plastic retention parts have broken. That is cool because this has been a problem with some helmet brands in the past.

The Flux comes with both a visor and a spoiler (see stock photo below). They are both removable and I immediately took off the “spoiler” because it looks dumb and I can’t believe there could possibly be a reason for it other than (questionable) aesthetics.

Although the helmet has 20 vents, it seems hotter than any of my other helmets. That may be because of the dark “urban camo” color scheme (not my first choice)-, but almost all the color choices available are darkish. The Fox Flux is a pretty good helmet and I would like it a lot more if it fit me better. Try it on and if it fits you well- put it on your list of contenders. It retails for $99.95.

Charlie

www.foxhead.com

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bikefix Initial Review: Fox Bomber gloves

Bad Ass. After my trusty Fox Digits finally bit the dust, I set out for the local shop looking to replace them. There, these shiny black, carbon fiber-knuckled Fox Bomber gloves were just too cool to resist. They have the well-evolved Fox fit that seems to work well for many people and appeared pretty reasonably priced at $40.

It turns out that the Bombers are classified by Fox as a Motocross glove. As such, there are very few concessions to light weight or breathability. On the trail, they certainly feel protective, but get pretty warm pretty darn quick. The cuffs come further up the outside of the wrist than I'm used to, but its not a bad feeling- just different. The carbon fiber knuckle protection is a bit uncomfortable at first, but the padding underneath broke in within a couple of rides and they're now hardly more noticeable than other gloves' knuckles. Despite the numerous seams on these pretty complex little guys, I haven't felt any chafing at all on 3-6 hour rides.

Its early yet, but I've been impressed by the Bombers so far. For more gravity-oriented riders, the added protection will be appreciated and the extra warmth more than acceptable. For those who are looking for something a bit more cycling-specific, the company's Unabomber model has similar carbon fiber knuckle protection for the ring and pinkie fingers, a terry thumb and lighter index and middle fingers.

The lack of a terry thumb is a shame, and now that temperatures are closing in on the 90s here, they're being left home in favor of lighter (though less protective) gloves. At this point, they'll probably be out of service until September or October, which is a shame. I'm considering seeing if anyone on eBay wanted them and ordering up some of the three-season Unabombers. If you suffer from cold hands or tend to hit the ground a lot, though, the Bombers are comfortable, protective and most of all pretty freakin' badass- which is why most folks will buy them in the first place.

marc

www.foxracing.com

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bikefix Exclusive Review: Selle Italia Yutaak saddle

The Yutaak is Selle Italia’s new off-road saddle. It is being billed as a all-mountain/DH saddle, but seeing as its not particularly porky (260g), I thought I would try it out on my long-travel trail bike.

The first thing you notice is the orange back and “wingtips,” and you probably think “ugly” too. I also think this saddle is ugly but really don’t care anymore because it's proving to be a fantastic saddle. The orange tabs are Vibram rubber that are cushioned in the rear and add extra grip for the sides. You can’t see from the pictures that there is also Vibram underneath the nose- presumably to help carry the bike, or to toughen the saddle for the inevitable nose hanging and crashing.

The whole seat is covered in a non-slip a Cordura/Kevlar fabric which combined with the Vibram side tabs, is great for controlling the bike with your thighs on the descents. The fabric is intended to be tougher than leather and probably is- I haven’t managed to rip it yet. [while I found the saddle largely comfortable when I borrowed it for a recent ride, the fabric is a bit rough for those of us who prefer Lycra shorts. Long descents can actually cause some rather unpleasant inner-thigh chafing. That said, if you're buying this saddle, you're probably not in the habit of sporting tighties anyways. -marc] The seat is very well cushioned for outstanding all-day comfort. The nose is also better padded than any saddle I’ve tried recently, which anybody who climbs super-steep hills on long-travel bikes will certainly appreciate.

The 140mm wide stance is perfect for my largish ass but is the only width the seat comes in. Selle Italia uses tubular Titanium 316 rails to keep weight down and comfort up. If you look closely, you can see the rails are not round but shaped. This is to make the saddle rails more resistant to bending without adding much weight or requiring a non-standard seatpost (not all posts' clamps will work, though, so make sure to buy from a local shop with an exchange policy).

The Yutaak may not be the lightest saddle but it’s not much heavier than many more cross-country oriented saddles. It is tough, comfortable, and absolutely deserves a shot at your wallet. As far as the looks go- either you'll like it or you won't. The Yutaak retails for around $125.00. There is also a Gel Flow version, which I haven’t tried and is more expensive.

Charlie

www.selleitalia.com

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bikefix Exclusive Review: Ritchey Snap-On Rim Tape

It's not a bad idea to have a quick look at a wheel's rim strip whenever a tire is replaced. Rim strips that have cracked, moved or gone AWOL can be the cause of persistent mystery flats that have the capability to drive most home mechanics crazy. For years, there have been basically two options for rim strips. The first (and widely preferred) is a dense adhesive-backed cloth tape. The second has been the plain rubber strip that's protected Huffy tubes since time began. On a modern double-walled rim, the rim strip's function is to prevent the tube from pushing into and getting cut on the hole in which the spoke nipple sits or on the spoke or nipple itself. The rubber rim strips are wholly unsuited to decent quality rims (appropriate only for single-walled rims), making cloth tape the only choice for quite some time. However, the adhesive on the cloth tape can dry out or its life shortened by moisture, allowing the tape to shift and expose holes. If looked after, though, the standard Velox rim tape can work quite well.

About 5 (maybe 10) years ago a third option started popping up. Snap-in rim strips are loops of hard plastic or densely woven nylon that literally snap into the rim bed. They span the entire width of the rim and stay in place quite well. However, the molded plastic ones were a pain in the ass to mount or remove, and folks often forgot about the valve hole (which needs to be aligned during installation. Traditionalists (myself included) scoffed and went back to their Velox. At some point, I built a wheel and needed rim tape. The local shop was out of Velox and (very much wanting to ride my new wheel) I reluctantly took a $4.00 gamble and went home with a set of Ritchey Snap-On Rim Tape. The Ritchey tape is made of a densely woven nylon material. The 700c size fills the entire width of an Open Pro, Sun ME14A, Mavic Cosmic or similar road rim, so can't shift and expose the holes. Drop an allen key or philips screwdriver through the tape and rim's valve hole (to maintain orientation) and snap it on. It's reassuringly snug but stretches enough that installation isn't a battle: probably a 30 second operation altogether.

How's it work? On several bikes over several years and thousands of on- and off-road miles, I've never had one fail. They're probably a shade lighter than the Velox, but the ease of installation and greater longevity are more valuable. At $4 for a bike's worth, they're half the price. They're also re-usable, particularly important for those fancy (aggravating) road wheels with hidden nipples. Ultimately, it's a product that does its job better than the competition at a lower price. What's not to like?

marc

www.ritcheylogic.com

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bikefix Exclusive Review: eBay chainring bolts

There's no justification for my buying these, but I happen to think that my bike looks good with a few well-placed blue accents to bring out the color in the decals. Late nights + eBay access can lead to some interesting impulse buys and these anodized blue chainring bolts are one example. I knew when I recieved them that they weren't of particularly high quality- the threads were sloppy and the blue pretty pale, but they looked pretty neat on the bike (shades of 1995), so I kept them. The bike that they were on lives on the upper hooks of a Topeak Dual Touch stand, and it just so happens that the chainrings are at just about eye level. Walking by one day, something in those cool blue bolts caught my eye. On two out of the four bolts, the bolt heads were about 3/4 sheared from the body. This was something that I'd never seen in 20 years of mountain biking. Now, I do typically hit a lot of stuff with my big ring, but it's not bent and compared to the Northeast, there aren't that many logs to claw over in New Mexico. As the sheared bolts were next to one another with the sheared portion facing out, I can only assume that I hit a log or rock just right with the big ring and it started to pop the heads off. The chainring was fine, so I slapped the original Shimano bolts back on and have been riding them since. So, if you're going to go with cheap blue bolts, be sure to keep an eye on them. Otherwise, it could be a long ride out of the woods in the granny ring. It's almost certainly not a good idea to use them on a brakeless fixie.

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bikefix Initial Review: Uvex Rebel sunglasses

Anyone who has spent time in a laboratory or factory setting has probably worn Uvex eyewear. In the US at least, the company almost certainly sells more ANSI Z87.1 compliant eye protection than anything else. The sports side of the business, which is based in Germany makes some very good helmets (reviews here and here) and sunglasses. This spring, we received a set of the company's Rebel sunglasses run through the wringer. The Rebels' are a smaller frame, interchangeable lensed with several cool features. They come with both dark gray and a high-contrast orange lenses and black, blue and silver frames for a very reasonable $60.

A unique feature of the Rebel is the lens mounting. The lenses attach at the nose bridge and essentially float next to the frame as it runs from there to the arms. Because the lenses aren't a rigid part of the frame, the entire frame flexes to gently hold the rider's head- several riders have tired the rebels and they are comfortable for a very wide range of face widths. Because the 'spring' flex takes place over a large part of the frame, they can hold snugly without getting pinchy. There are rubber arm and nose pads and thanks to their very light weight the rebels stay put without squeezing the head. Uvex is particularly proud of these frames' sturdiness- and they should be. Rather than resisting bending and ultimately breaking, the Rebel frames have a remarkable amount of give (see picture), and its possible to twist the arms until they're over 100 degrees apart. Let go and they bounce right back into shape. This probably isn't something you'd want to do regularly, but it shows that the Uvex's are anything but fragile.

As a company known for protective eyewear used in pretty nasty environments, we have no doubts about the Uvex lenses' ability to keep out the odd tree branch or flying stone. While the Rebel's lenses don't have the striking clarity of more expenses glasses', they are perfectly clear and the lack of a lower frame makes for a very wide field of vision. The gray lenses block quite a bit of light and as such are great for bright, treeless rides. In the woods, though, a higher-contrast (and maybe slightly lighter) rose or brown lens would have been nice. As a result, I found myself wearing these on the road bike more than anywhere else. Here in the desert, the orange lenses were too light, but would be great for riding through a gray British winter, as they have very high contrast in flatter Northern light. The glasses' normal-length arms can interfere with Giro helmet retention systems, but so can pretty much every other pair we've tried. Unsurprisingly, Uvex's helmets pose no such problems.

The fact that the lenses aren't attached to the Rebel's frames along their top edge is a mixed blessing. For riders whose glasses are constantly fogging, the added ventilation is fantastic and they'll be some of the most fog-resistant glasses out there. The flip side of this is that a bit of wind tended to sneak by on my face and I my typically watery eyes were even more so than usual. Also, in a road tuck, I sometimes had a distracting line of bright light between the frames and lens at the top of my field of view. I have a feeling that both of these issues will be head-specific and certainly aren't deal breakers. Nobody else who's tried the Rebels has mentioned the issue.

For absent-minded or clumsy riders who've put off buying decent riding glasses for fear of sitting on or otherwise breaking them, the Rebels are ideal. The don't scream "bike dork" when worn casually and look particularly good on narrower faces and the price is very reasonable. Trying them on at a local dealer would be ideal, but they are also available in the US directly from Uvex's website. I've handed them off to our resident off-road triathlete, so look for a run/ride review in a few months.

marc

www.uvexsports.com

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New Test Bike #1: Maverick Uber-Durance

It's spring, and here at bikefix, we have a couple of new test bikes in the pipeline. Here's the first: Charlie will be rollin' like a pimp on Maverick's new 140mm travel Durance. Look reviews on the 2009 Fox 32 TALAS (we've been assured that it's much improved), Fulcrum (Campagnolo) Red Metal Zero wheelset, Hope CNC'd stem, Formula The ONE brakes and Schwalbe Racing Ralph tires. Word is, the thing weighs 26lb- not bad for a bike with 5.5in travel at either end. Look for reviews over the next several months...

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bikefix Exclusive Review: Commencal Meta 5.5.2 mountain bike

Despite consistantly positive (if not rave) reviews from European magazines, Commencal bikes are a rarity in the States. Max Commencal, for whom the company is named, was the force behind the Sunn bikes on which Nico Vouilloz was a domininant downhiller from the mid-late 1990s. Commencal and Sunn ultimately parted ways, and Commencal struck out on his own, forming (probably) Andorra's only bike company. Located in the Pyranees between France and Spain, Andorra is a principality known primarily as a wealthy tax haven and for the fact that its citizens live longer than anywhere else on earth. However, the region is also known for having has some fantastic riding- rockier and drier than the Alps but certainly no less spectacular. Distributor BTI has been importing the complete bikes and frames for the past couple of years and was kind enough to loan us a 140mm travel Meta 5.5 from their Commencal demo fleet for a few weeks.

As we wrote in our recent review of Pivot's Mach 5, bikes in with 5 or so inches of suspension travel can have widely varying personalities. The Meta 5.5 is like that heavy-ish guy on group rides who manages to hang with everyone on the climbs but rips it up on the descents- railing corners, bombing through rocky sections and going for air at every opportunity. The suspension is essently a linkage-driven single pivot setup. A good-sized swingarm provides good lateral stiffness while the linkage drives a proven Fox RP3 rear shock. While adding the linkage takes back some of the simplicity granted by the single pivot design, it helps to isolate the shock from lateral forces that could shorten its lifespan as well as to tailor the way in which rear wheel movement is seen by the shock. Overall, the frame seems to be built for the long run, with thick dropouts, chunky machined linkages, top- and down tube gussets and a top tube flared at the seat tube- all of which add up to a (depending on your perspective) slightly off-putting or fairly reassuring 7.3lb (3.3kg) frame weight. The black frame with gold and white patterned decals could have come off as a bit chav, but were pretty classy in person, and the Meta 5.5.2 is a handsome bike.

Our $3200 Meta 5.5.2 model (the .2 refers to the build) came with a mix if SRAM X7 and X9 drivetrain components, fantastic Formula Oro K18 hydraulic discs (180mm front, 160mm rear), a Deore rear hub and a Fox Float 140mm fork. Initially, I found that build to be uninspiring for the asking price. Looking around, though, Specialized's Enduro SL Comp has a very similar build kit for the same money, and that company has some serious economies of scale working in their favor. Still, it is disappointing to see a Deore rear hub on anything over $1,000. Not that it's a bad piece of equipment (its probably the best $30 rear hub available), but that the LX and XT are also very inexpensive and that hubs are very difficult to replace (especially when compared to a seatpost, saddle or handlebar) if something goes horribly wrong. The Truvativ cranks, Race Face Evolve XC stem and seatpost and Commencal handlebar will likely do the job without complaint and the SDG Bel Air saddle was a pleasant surprise. While some folks aren't yet tubeless fans, on a bike that is meant to be ridden aggressively, having the option would be nice- a mid-range Mavic wheelset would be both tubeless compatible and feature hubs more appropriate to the bike's price point- your dealer may well work with you to make something like that happen for a few extra dollars. Maxxis High Roller tires are predictable and proven, though only one on our tester had a folding bead. All together, with pedals, the large Meta 5.5.2 came in at a reasonable 31b- not bad at all given its conservative construction and build kit. After spending $30 on tubes for our last tubed test bike, though, I opted to test the bike with my own tubeless wheelset and tires.

Its no surprise, given Commencal's location and downhill heritage, that their 5.5in bike really