bikefix Exclusive Review: Injinji Performance Tetrasoks

Because we can. I imagine that this simple statement goes a long way toward answering the resounding "why?" that comes when people see these Injinji foot gloves. Erm, toe socks. Injinji compare standard socks to "foot mittens" claiming that they reduce toe dexterity, increase heat and moisture buildup and skin-on-skin friction (all of which are considered Bad Things). So, with the goal of combating these evils, the company has taken advantage of modern knitting technology to build a technical version of the novelty socks that swept the country's junior high schools several years back.

The Performance Terasoks I've been using on and off for almost a year were a gift for someone who knows about my love of all things weird and different. I've worn them casually, for running, for hiking and while riding and have to admit- I think that they're cool. Not because of any real performance benefit, but mostly because of how they look padding around the house without shoes on. Because we're a bike site, though, I'll focus on how they work on the bike.

Because most riding shoes at this point are pretty darn stiff, the Injinji's don't really allow the rider to make much use of their toe dexterity (though I imagine monkeys would love them). While it can take a while (for socks) to pull them on and get the toes in the right spots, they have a nice cozy feel. Inside snug cycling shoes, though, the extra 8 fabric thicknesses can be a bit much, though my Shimanos have enough space in the toe box that things don't get uncomfortable. Contrary to Injinji's claims and despite a fabric that is 70% Coolmax, I feel that the Tetrasok's actually run a bit warmer than normal cycling socks. I have the feeling that this might be the result of having less volume available for air circulation and while it's good to pull moisture from between the toes, it really doesn't have anywhere to go from there. For warm rides with lots of stream crossings, though, they can be nice, without the heat of a full-on wool sock. They're certainly a bit thin for winter use, though. One big advantage, from my perspective, is the complete lack of any toe seams, which can be annoying in any sock (Sock Guy's seem to bug me the most)- if you're particularly irritable in that respect, they might be worth seeking out.

Regardless of their claimed technical merits or my comments above, I bet that most folks will have decided if they would want a pair after seeing the first photo. Me, I think that they're neat and different. They're neither at the top or the bottom of the sock drawer and do see regular use. After probably 20 wearings and washings, they're in fine shape, with no unexpected wear, despite their complexity. They're available at REI (among other places) for $12, which seems to be the going rate for cycling socks these days.

marc

www.injinji.com

btw: “Injinji“ is pronounced (In-gin-ji) and is an African term which describes when a drumming circle reaches a climax, the peak in the performance, when all of the participants are at one with the rhythm, when everyone hits a stride and there is unison among all. Quasi-science meets quasi-spiritualism. Somehow, I still like 'em.

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bikefix Exclusive Review: Look Quartz pedals (Marc's take)

Look have had a bit of a hard time with the mountain bike pedal market, haven't they? Despite giving it their best for quite some time, they have failed to gain a real foothold. Most recently, they were selling a pedal using Crank Brothers' excellent Eggbeater design. Apparently, though, that wasn't good enough, so they decided to have another go at things.

I think that I understand what they're shooting for with their new (for 2008) Quartz pedal. No doubt inspired to some extent by Time's immortal ATACs, the Quartz are very similar in concept. A fixed rear retention bar holds the cleat and a sprung front retention bar moves to allow entry and exit. What they're selling here are two things: a large(ish) platform and light weight. The entry level ($99) Quartz pedals come in at 130g apiece, or within 5g of my dirty Eggbeater SLs. There's plenty of room to clear mud, and they look good on paper. the pair pictured here were leant to me by a very frustrated Charlie, so I figured that I'd give 'em a go.

After hearing Charlie's complaints, I decided to read the manual. Not instructions, mind, but a proper (if tiny) multilingual bound book. Unlike Time pedals (where the retention bars interface with the shoe) or Eggbeaters (where the cleat has little wings that rest on the pedal body), the Quartz rely entirely on the lugs of a rider's shoes to act as the interface for pedaling. Sure, the cleat stops the shoes from pulling out of the pedal, but the bulk of the work is done by the lugs. While this approach does provide a large amount of surface area, mountain bike shoes' lug depths are hardly standardized. As a result, in order to allow the cleat to engage while the lugs bear the load, the cleat has to be fairly accurately located through the use of any of a number of included shims.

While the instructions provide a good starting point, there is a fair amount of trial and error involved- not something to do while your riding buddies are waiting. After a couple of tries, I got the shoes to provide support while allowing the cleat to clip into the pedals without too much effort. Time to ride.

The first thing that I noticed was the complete absence of any float. While some like the feeling of being rigidly tied to a pedal, most folks (and their knees) appreciate a few degrees of self-correction. Because the shoe's lugs are the primary interface here and because of the cleat's flat-fronted shape (see photo), though, that's not an option. Not the end of the world, but certainly worth mentioning. Clipping in wasn't as easy as I have become accustomed to, either- it's toe-down and forward only, please, and they really don't self-locate particularly well. Less acceptable, though, is the Quartz's tendency to release with even a small amount of roll. Maybe it's because I'm a spaz, or maybe my excessive application of body English in technical situations, but I found myself popping out of these pedals at some very inopportune moments. Throw a knee out in a corner? Release. Roll a foot while climbing? Release. Land a bit sideways in a rock garden? Release. I haven't had this problem in ten years, and that was usually the result of ATAC cleats worn to the nib. After a particularly exciting no-footed rocky descent in which I was happy to have landed testicle-first on the saddle, I pulled the Quartz off my bike and the cleats off my shoes.

From a design perspective, relying on something that you (as a manufacturer) can't control as the key part of an interface is best avoided. Furthermore, shoes' lugs (especially on mountain bikes) aren't static- they wear over time and that wear will have an impact on the pedals' performance. I'm not sure if Look expect riders to change shims every time their shoes wear 1/2mm, but I'm confident in saying that most won't. Finally, if folks walk a bit funny, their shoes will wear unevenly, resulting in one side being lower than the other, which I can't imagine particularly agrees with this design (and may be part of the problem I had). Canted shoes can work well biomechanically (Specialized cant their Body Geometry shoes to the outside), but that kind of thing should be controlled better than it can be here.

At the end of the day, I can't even come close recommending a pedal that releases so unpredictably, regardless of its other virtues. Things around here are just too technical and the consequences too great. Have a look at Eggbeaters (SLs or better), Crank Brothers Mallets or any Shimano SPD pedals if you're in the pedal market.

marc

www.lookcycle.com

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bikefix Exclusive Review: Look Quartz pedals (Charlie's take)

As some of you may have gathered, I’m a gearhead, and a sucker for a new product- even if it’s just a new take on an existing design. There are a number of good pedals being made: I am personally very fond of the Crank Brothers' Eggbeater pedals, and we all know that the Shimano's SPD pedals work great, not to mention Time's ATAC, which have their fans. Look's new Quartz looks similar to the Time Attack pedal in design, which in turn is similar to a heavier and more complex Eggbeater. I didn’t take a Quartz apart to see if the innards were engineered in a unique way because it doesn’t really matter: the end result is a pedal that has two parallel bars that hold your cleat in place using spring tension- which is a “tried and true” method.

The problems start with the execution. I’ll be honest. I got so frustrated with the set-up of these pedals that I gave them (after 3 rides/tries) to Marc to try, and see if I was just being an idiot. Per the instructions, I used the included shims to get the cleat proud enough to clip into the pedal. The idea here is that the cleat must be accurately relative to the bottom of the shoe's lugs to allow the rider to clip in without too much resistance and to allow the lugs to become part of the interface between the shoe and the pedal. Despite following the directions, one sole was worn enough though that my foot was able to slip right off the side like a hockey puck on ice. Look packages shims of different thicknesses (some of which may be combined) to account for different shoes' lug depths.

Riding the Quartz's on the trail was interesting. The first time out, I was ejecting sideways constantly because I was not aware they needed to be held in by the rubber sole, and I had removed the rubber from my Sidi Dragon MTB shoes for road use. After that ride I went back and read through the directions with the utmost care (which I don’t usually do for pedals), and realized (interpreted) that the pedals need the side rubber lugs that the shoe sole provides to hold them on (Look recommend against using the Quartz with smooth-soled road shoes). The second time was better: one foot did occasionally slip out (that sole is fairly worn) but the other seemed to stay put. However, with this set-up I noticed that my feet didn’t feel flat on the pedals. They felt like they were tipping to the outside and there was a fair bit of vertical play. It’s also possible that these problems might go away with some more trial and error- but at this point I was fed up.

I have never had to pay much attention to my pedal and cleat set-up before. I might be more forgiving if these pedals were a groundbreaking new design that promised me something better once I got the set-up just right, but that’s just not the case. These pedals only promise an already expected level of performance- and that only after a long and annoying set-up process. Why bother when there are many other proven choices that require almost no effort to install and use?

These pedals might work fine once they are “finagled” properly or perhaps the pair I bought was malfunctioning. I simply don’t have the time or patience to sacrifice rides to deal with it. If, like me you like to 'fit and forget,' then you might want to stay away. The quality of the materials and finish was excellent however. They retail for $99.99.

If anybody from Look reads this, please feel free to contact us and set us straight if you think we screwed-up. I used SIDI shoes and Carnac shoes (but only Sidi on the trail). Or perhaps my pedals are flawed. Marc's experience was very similar, though. I will re-test them if we made the mistake.

Charlie

www.lookcycle-usa.com

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bikefix Exclusive Review: Swiftwick Four Ole socks

Following our review of their awesome NaturWool 2Sox last fall, Swiftwick was kind enough to send us some of their socks to try. Marc gave me a pair of the company's Ole Four socks to try. We received them while it was still fairly chilly out and they looked like summer socks, so I put-off testing them until the weather warmed a bit.

I like natural fibers a lot, but I also recognize that man-made materials can be quite excellent too. These socks are an example of that. They are made of 80% Nylon, 15% Olefin [a fiber that absorbs .01% of its weight in water, has won a Nobel Prize and happens to float], and 5% Lycra. They are quite thin overall but have strategically placed thicker areas. They have a number of nice touches like a tighter-than-normal cuff to keep them in place, an almost imperceptible toe seam, and the sock size is knitted into the foot-bed. Best of all, they are also made in the USA baby.

They are very comfortable, but fit quite tightly and at first I was concerned by the tightness, but once riding it was forgotten (and it might even help reduce foot swelling on long rides). After a number of long hot rides I have decided that these socks rock. This sock does what its name implies- wicks moisture away from your skin. I was amazed at how cool and happy my feet were (and its been hot here). The highest praise I can give them is that they felt like they became part of my body. I had to keep looking down to make sure they were still on.

This is absolutely a summer sock, and I would hesitate to use it on epic-length ride at high altitudes because it would offer little warmth if the weather got cold and wet. That is my only caveat in recommending these socks. If cold (though not winter) weather is a possibility, Swiftwick also has a wool blend sock which we like very much too. The Ole is available in three different cuff heights. The company is also geared towards custom socks- these would make some of the nicest we've come across. You can view the range on the company’s website at www.swiftwick.com.

charlie

www.swiftwick.com

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bikefix Review Update: fi'zi:k Saddle Pa:k bag

Update, 23 June 2008:

After our review of fi'zi:k's Saddle Pa:k (below), we got an e-mail from the company's US Marketing Manager Suzette. It turns out that they were one step ahead of us and, while not all saddle pa:k zippers fail, some do. So, revised Saddle Pa:ks (those with a ":k" on the side) have higher-quality YKK brand zippers. Within a few days, the brown & tan Santa man had left one in our front garden. The zipper is clearly different, as are some of the other fabrics and their cut, though the nice low-profile shape remains the same. The dual reflective patches that we liked so much are gone, though the new ":k" logos on the bag sides are reflective, so it's probably a visibility wash. Suzette also mentioned that the company encourages any customer who feels that their fi'zi:k product hasn't lived up to the brand's high quality image return it to the place where purchased for warranty. It's now loaded and mounted- we'll let you know how it goes!

Do the folks at fi'zi:k all have creatively named children? I mean, why be difficult? I could easily hate Selle Royal's high-end saddle brand for this alone if their quality saddles didn't force me to forgive their habit of taking liberties with the Roman alphabet. The company's Arione and Aliante saddles have found many fans (myself included) over the past several years, from the peleton on down. The company also makes a handful of accessories, including some bar tape (look for a review some time in the next few months) and this rather nice looking saddle bag.

The XS-sized Saddle Pa:k (come on guys) is just the right size to hold a road tube, small CO2 inflator, small mini tool and maybe a tire lever. In other words, this unobtrusive little guy is just the right size to carry all the things that I want to have along on every ride. Keys, phone, wallet and food? Not a chance- they'll have to go in jersey pockets. Which is how I like it. With a similar bag on both of my road/commuter bikes, it's nice not to have to have to think before heading out- everything that I need is already there in a compact, non-floppy package. The bag is made of water-resistant fabric, has a water-resistant zipper, a blinky tab and two reflective patches to ensure visibility regardless of mounting angle. All this for $14.00 Pretty cool, eh?

Well it was pretty cool for about 6 months, when I noticed that the zipper was becoming increasingly stubborn. Not a big deal- all I needed to do to access the contents was to undo the rail straps and swing the bag away from the seatpost. Sort of a pain, but the non-jangly zipper pull (good) seemed to be pulling the zipper head at a funny angle and causing it to bind a bit. Swinging the bag out from under the saddle allowed easier access and the ability to finesse the zipper open. Now, I don't particularly like flats. Nor do I like my stuff bouncing down the road after falling out of my saddle bag. So, you can imagine my delight when, after a repairing a flat and zipping up the Saddle Pa:k, I heard the jangle of tools hitting pavement. Stopping, I collected my things and chastised myself for being careless. It turns out that the 8 month old zipper on my had gone from open-close mode to open-open and would no longer secure the bag's contents. Luckily, I had eaten my snacks so the tools went into a jersey pocket, the tube was wedged deeper into the bag and I was sad (and annoyed by pocket tool jangle).

It's a shame, really- the rest of the bag was holding up great. The fabric seems to be plenty abrasion resistant and the hook & loop fastener and reflective patches of high quality. It seemed very well thought out and constructed but was ultimately let down by its weakest link. Does the zipper even need to be water resistant? Not many other bags seem to have them, and I'll probably be avoiding them for a while. With a durable (and maybe simpler) zipper, the bag would be worth, say, $17 and easily be a bikefix Pick. Oh so close...

marc

www.fizik.com

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bikefix Exclusive Review: Origin8 Propulsion handlebar tape

A regular reader might be forgiven for thinking that we had some sort of connection with J&B Importers for our reviews of their Origin8 stuff. Sadly, we don't. It just tuns out that the company is selling some stuff at the moment that works very well and is reasonably priced. After good luck with some of their finishing kit and hearing good things about their frames from bike shop guys, I've been taking a closer look at stuff from the brand when I come across it.

This winter, when I rebuilt my cyclocross bike as a fixed gear, I decided to replace the awful FSA faux-carbon bar tape. At the bike shop, I was balking at $18 for Cinelli cork tape and noticed a box of Origin8 bar tape hanging down near the floor. Popping the box open, I found a nice, spongy foam tape that seemed both cushiony and stretchy. The box claimed that it got tacky when wet, which would be a pleasant change from the FSA tape I had been using. At $10, it was worth a shot.

Six months later, the Origin8 has become my favorite bar tape. Ever. It went on easily (the stretchiness helps there) and has stayed exactly where I put it. No slipping in the bends, no peeling at the edges. The material, which I doubt is natural cork, is holding up very well. It is spongier than cork tape and has proven more comfortable in the same amount of space- no double wrapping or gel pads needed (or desired) here. It certainly isn't as slippery when wet as the Fi'zi:k Microtex tape on my road bike, which I appreciate more the hotter it gets. Since buying the first box, I've only noticed it in one local shop, but if you have the time, it may be worth putting in a special request.

marc

www.origin-8.com
www.jbimporters.com

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bikefix Exclusive Review: Castelli "Castelli" jersey

What's just about as good as being fast? Looking fast! I ordered Castelli's "Castelli" jersey this spring because it reminded me of the colors used on Gulf's Porsche race cars from the '60s and '70s (light blue and orange), only reversed. Can't get much faster than that. Of course, coming from Castelli, I expected that the construction would be high quality, the fit a bit slim, and the details pretty well thought out.

Sharing the same cut as several other Castelli Jerseys, the "Castelli" has a 3/4-length zipper. The three rear pockets are pretty standard, but in one sits a nice soft inner iPod or cell phone pocket with a buttonhole (to the inside of the jersey) for a headphone cable. It's a bit small for a wide-ish Motorola Razr, but fits skinnier phones and iPod Nanos very well. While I tend to discourage the use of headphones while road riding, there's no better way to get a good workout in a short period of time than listening to some good music while single speeding, and the player stays put very nicely while riding. Three reflective dots on the leftmost rear pocket are a nice touch if the ride runs unexpectedly long (but no substitute for proper lights come nighttime). The fabric itself is very thin- almost papery and very lightweight.

My jersey was one of the first '08s to come through and felt a bit baggy around the waist. Castelli had a problem with the "gather" on some of their early deliveries, but it's since been addressed. The looser waist may suit baggy short fans, though, so go through your shop's inventory to find one that works for you. Though I ordered expecting Castelli's fit to be a bit snug, it wasn't as snug as I expected. I usually wear a medium, and the Castelli large fits my 145lb frame OK (though not road snug). If you're over, say 175lb, an XL may be in order. Looking at the photos, I'm thinking that a medium would probably be more flattering to my (ahem) aerodynamic biceps- without being too short. As always, try to support your local shop and make use of their fitting room if possible. While the fabric isn't nearly as airy feeling as I expected, it does a very good job at moving moisture away from the body- great under the kind of big pack that big summer rides require. While there are cooler jerseys out there, I find that more open fabrics can be too cool for early morning starts and find that a long zipper makes up most of the difference once the day warms. I've also worn far warmer ss jerseys, so would have to put this one somewhere in the middle of things.

In this case, $80 gets you a very cool looking (in my opinion), American-made jersey with a hidden pocket that makes it perfect for music lovers. The colors are visible in traffic without screaming commuter!- a plus in my book. It wicks moisture very well, and while it isn't as cool as some of the more mesh-y jerseys I've worn, it's all the more versatile for it. I've been wearing it nonstop since I got it.

marc

www.castelli-us.com

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bikefix Exclusive Review: Castelli Lowboy sock

Mmm... Socks. Every cyclist I know has loads. Warm socks, cool socks, comfy socks and awful socks. Still, we find it hard to resist just one more pair. As temperatures have climbed into the 90s here, my warm wooly and trendy tall socks have made their way to the bottom of the sock basket. At the top? Cool socks.

The coolest of them all, I happen to think, are these Castelli Lowboy socks. Cool not only for their antibacterial Meryl fabric and their fancy Italian logos, but also for their in-the-shoe fit. The cooling gained by exposing my pasty white ankles to the summer air is hard to quantify but certainly noticeable- and much appreciated. The cut is just tall enough keep my cycling shoes from rubbing on my exposed ankles- but not one bit taller. From a few feet away, they're all but invisible.

The pictures here were taken sitting on the patio after a recent 60mi, 90° road ride. During this and other long rides, the Lowboys have done a good job at removing moisture from the foot itself, and the white band around the forefoot feels supportive (though my heat-moldable insoles are arguably doing much more of the work). On the mountain bike, they seem to be a bit too low- the low cuff seems to take in sand and dirt as soon as I start walking- they're really a road-only kind of thing. At $13, their price is on par with other cycling socks'. They're not cute or witty, but on a hot summer day, there's nothing else that I'd feel cooler wearing.

marc

www.castelli-us.com

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bikefix Exclusive Review: fi'zi:k Saddle Pa:k bag

Update, 22 June 2008:

After our review of fi'zi:k's Saddle Pa:k (below), we got an e-mail from the company's US Marketing Manager Suzette. It turns out that they were one step ahead of us and, while not all saddle pa:k zippers fail, some do. So, revised Saddle Pa:ks (those with a ":k" on the side) have higher-quality YKK brand zippers. Within a few days, the brown & tan Santa man had left one in our front garden. The zipper is clearly different, as are some of the other fabrics and their cut, though the nice low-profile shape remains the same. The dual reflective patches that we liked so much are gone, though the new ":k" logos on the bag sides are reflective, so it's probably a visibility wash. Suzette also mentioned that the company encourages any customer who feels that their fi'zi:k product hasn't lived up to the brand's high quality image return it to the place where purchased for warranty. It's now loaded and mounted- we'll let you know how it goes!

Do the folks at fi'zi:k all have creatively named children? I mean, why be difficult? I could easily hate Selle Royal's high-end saddle brand for this alone if their quality saddles didn't force me to forgive their habit of taking liberties with the Roman alphabet. The company's Arione and Aliante saddles have found many fans (myself included) over the past several years, from the peleton on down. The company also makes a handful of accessories, including some bar tape (look for a review some time in the next few months) and this rather nice looking saddle bag.

The XS-sized Saddle Pa:k (come on guys) is just the right size to hold a road tube, small CO2 inflator, small mini tool and maybe a tire lever. In other words, this unobtrusive little guy is just the right size to carry all the things that I want to have along on every ride. Keys, phone, wallet and food? Not a chance- they'll have to go in jersey pockets. Which is how I like it. With a similar bag on both of my road/commuter bikes, it's nice not to have to have to think before heading out- everything that I need is already there in a compact, non-floppy package. The bag is made of water-resistant fabric, has a water-resistant zipper, a blinky tab and two reflective patches to ensure visibility regardless of mounting angle. All this for $14.00 Pretty cool, eh?

Well it was pretty cool for about 6 months, when I noticed that the zipper was becoming increasingly stubborn. Not a big deal- all I needed to do to access the contents was to undo the rail straps and swing the bag away from the seatpost. Sort of a pain, but the non-jangly zipper pull (good) seemed to be pulling the zipper head at a funny angle and causing it to bind a bit. Swinging the bag out from under the saddle allowed easier access and the ability to finesse the zipper open. Now, I don't particularly like flats. Nor do I like my stuff bouncing down the road after falling out of my saddle bag. So, you can imagine my delight when, after a repairing a flat and zipping up the Saddle Pa:k, I heard the jangle of tools hitting pavement. Stopping, I collected my things and chastised myself for being careless. It turns out that the 8 month old zipper on my had gone from open-close mode to open-open and would no longer secure the bag's contents. Luckily, I had eaten my snacks so the tools went into a jersey pocket, the tube was wedged deeper into the bag and I was sad (and annoyed by pocket tool jangle).

It's a shame, really- the rest of the bag was holding up great. The fabric seems to be plenty abrasion resistant and the hook & loop fastener and reflective patches of high quality. It seemed very well thought out and constructed but was ultimately let down by its weakest link. Does the zipper even need to be water resistant? Not many other bags seem to have them, and I'll probably be avoiding them for a while. With a durable (and maybe simpler) zipper, the bag would be worth, say, $17 and easily be a bikefix Pick. Oh so close...

marc

www.fizik.com

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bikefix Exclusive Review: Ritchey Snap-On Rim Tape

It's not a bad idea to have a quick look at a wheel's rim strip whenever a tire is replaced. Rim strips that have cracked, moved or gone AWOL can be the cause of persistent mystery flats that have the capability to drive most home mechanics crazy. For years, there have been basically two options for rim strips. The first (and widely preferred) is a dense adhesive-backed cloth tape. The second has been the plain rubber strip that's protected Huffy tubes since time began. On a modern double-walled rim, the rim strip's function is to prevent the tube from pushing into and getting cut on the hole in which the spoke nipple sits or on the spoke or nipple itself. The rubber rim strips are wholly unsuited to decent quality rims (appropriate only for single-walled rims), making cloth tape the only choice for quite some time. However, the adhesive on the cloth tape can dry out or its life shortened by moisture, allowing the tape to shift and expose holes. If looked after, though, the standard Velox rim tape can work quite well.

About 5 (maybe 10) years ago a third option started popping up. Snap-in rim strips are loops of hard plastic or densely woven nylon that literally snap into the rim bed. They span the entire width of the rim and stay in place quite well. However, the molded plastic ones were a pain in the ass to mount or remove, and folks often forgot about the valve hole (which needs to be aligned during installation. Traditionalists (myself included) scoffed and went back to their Velox. At some point, I built a wheel and needed rim tape. The local shop was out of Velox and (very much wanting to ride my new wheel) I reluctantly took a $4.00 gamble and went home with a set of Ritchey Snap-On Rim Tape. The Ritchey tape is made of a densely woven nylon material. The 700c size fills the entire width of an Open Pro, Sun ME14A, Mavic Cosmic or similar road rim, so can't shift and expose the holes. Drop an allen key or philips screwdriver through the tape and rim's valve hole (to maintain orientation) and snap it on. It's reassuringly snug but stretches enough that installation isn't a battle: probably a 30 second operation altogether.

How's it work? On several bikes over several years and thousands of on- and off-road miles, I've never had one fail. They're probably a shade lighter than the Velox, but the ease of installation and greater longevity are more valuable. At $4 for a bike's worth, they're half the price. They're also re-usable, particularly important for those fancy (aggravating) road wheels with hidden nipples. Ultimately, it's a product that does its job better than the competition at a lower price. What's not to like?

marc

www.ritcheylogic.com

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bikefix Initial Review: Uvex Rebel sunglasses

Anyone who has spent time in a laboratory or factory setting has probably worn Uvex eyewear. In the US at least, the company almost certainly sells more ANSI Z87.1 compliant eye protection than anything else. The sports side of the business, which is based in Germany makes some very good helmets (reviews here and here) and sunglasses. This spring, we received a set of the company's Rebel sunglasses run through the wringer. The Rebels' are a smaller frame, interchangeable lensed with several cool features. They come with both dark gray and a high-contrast orange lenses and black, blue and silver frames for a very reasonable $60.

A unique feature of the Rebel is the lens mounting. The lenses attach at the nose bridge and essentially float next to the frame as it runs from there to the arms. Because the lenses aren't a rigid part of the frame, the entire frame flexes to gently hold the rider's head- several riders have tired the rebels and they are comfortable for a very wide range of face widths. Because the 'spring' flex takes place over a large part of the frame, they can hold snugly without getting pinchy. There are rubber arm and nose pads and thanks to their very light weight the rebels stay put without squeezing the head. Uvex is particularly proud of these frames' sturdiness- and they should be. Rather than resisting bending and ultimately breaking, the Rebel frames have a remarkable amount of give (see picture), and its possible to twist the arms until they're over 100 degrees apart. Let go and they bounce right back into shape. This probably isn't something you'd want to do regularly, but it shows that the Uvex's are anything but fragile.

As a company known for protective eyewear used in pretty nasty environments, we have no doubts about the Uvex lenses' ability to keep out the odd tree branch or flying stone. While the Rebel's lenses don't have the striking clarity of more expenses glasses', they are perfectly clear and the lack of a lower frame makes for a very wide field of vision. The gray lenses block quite a bit of light and as such are great for bright, treeless rides. In the woods, though, a higher-contrast (and maybe slightly lighter) rose or brown lens would have been nice. As a result, I found myself wearing these on the road bike more than anywhere else. Here in the desert, the orange lenses were too light, but would be great for riding through a gray British winter, as they have very high contrast in flatter Northern light. The glasses' normal-length arms can interfere with Giro helmet retention systems, but so can pretty much every other pair we've tried. Unsurprisingly, Uvex's helmets pose no such problems.

The fact that the lenses aren't attached to the Rebel's frames along their top edge is a mixed blessing. For riders whose glasses are constantly fogging, the added ventilation is fantastic and they'll be some of the most fog-resistant glasses out there. The flip side of this is that a bit of wind tended to sneak by on my face and I my typically watery eyes were even more so than usual. Also, in a road tuck, I sometimes had a distracting line of bright light between the frames and lens at the top of my field of view. I have a feeling that both of these issues will be head-specific and certainly aren't deal breakers. Nobody else who's tried the Rebels has mentioned the issue.

For absent-minded or clumsy riders who've put off buying decent riding glasses for fear of sitting on or otherwise breaking them, the Rebels are ideal. The don't scream "bike dork" when worn casually and look particularly good on narrower faces and the price is very reasonable. Trying them on at a local dealer would be ideal, but they are also available in the US directly from Uvex's website. I've handed them off to our resident off-road triathlete, so look for a run/ride review in a few months.

marc

www.uvexsports.com

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bikefix Exclusive Review: Origin8 Propulsion 3D Lite stem

Last winter, when I bought a Syncros Vector Carbon handlebar for my 29er, I needed to find a new, oversized (31.8mm clamp) stem to tie it to the bike with. The Syncros is a wide bar, and it was going on a mountain bike, so I needed something stiff, but the single speed being my race bike, I also wanted to keep the weight down. Having survived the 1990s with only a broken handlebar (I couldn't afford all that cool superlight stuff that ended up breaking), I am a bit wary of lightweight compnents- especially in the cockpit, where their failure can be pretty painful.

When they came out in 2006 or 2007, Ibis' mountain and road bikes came with a very nice looking (and surprisingly light) Ibis-badged stem. My Mojo came with a 110, which was unfortunately too long and was swapped with another 100mm stem before I left the shop, but I was impressed that Ibis had snuck a very nice, light component in where most companies would save a few bucks and mount a bit of an anchor. Roll things forward a few months and I'm back- looking for a stem to go with my new handlebar. They guys at the shop have found the Ibis stem under another name, and it's $40. Origin8 seems to be one of distributor J&B Importers' house brands (along with Cayne, who's Uno fixie we reviewed last fall). They have a range of far-Eastern components, frames and accessories that are reasonably priced and range from pretty a chintzy Maverick Speedball knockoff to full carbon frames and bars. I am skeptical of components that seem too light for their price (light, strong or cheap- pick any two), but side-by-side, the Origin8 Propulsion and Ibis stems were clearly the same, down to the torque markings. As every engineer and specifier knows, gram-for-gram, forging aluminum is one of the strongest ways to make a part. Unlike CNC (or conventional) machining, the process aligns the metal's grain with the desired shape. Skillful design and analysis can yield some of the strongest parts available at a given weight, and with volume the price can be quite reasonable (which is why Dura Ace and XTR cranks are still aluminum). The Origin8 Propulsion stem is "3D Forged" and shot-peened, which serves to harden the surface of the metal and prevent small cracks from starting (and thus from becoming big cracks).

Two $20s later and the deal was done. I have hundreds of miles on the Ibis-branded stem and have to say that I'm impressed. Noticeably stiffer than the $225 Deda Mag00 on my road bike and, at 120g, the Origin8 is just as light. The dual handlebar clamps skirt many bar companies' 4-bolt stem prohibitions and hold the Syncros well, without friction paste. The torque specifications on the hardware shows that some thought went into things (or at least that plausible values were pulled out of someone's ass), and I haven't heard of any breakages on the Ibises which are all over Albuquerque now (being hammered much harder than my single speed). If you're looking for a new 31.8mm for a road or XC mountain bike, I'd have to say that you really can't go wrong with the Propulsion.

marc

www.origin-8.com
www.jbimporters.com

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bikefix Initial Review: Ergon GE1 grips

Let me start this review off by saying thatI really don’t have big problems with my wrists while riding and that I don’t have strong preferences about grips (many people do), so (to put it simply) I wasn’t all that excited to try these grips. I decided to put them on my single-speed mountain bike because I really wrench on those bars when riding. After three months' use, I am actually impressed.

The German company Ergon takes their name from ergonomics, which is the science of human-machine interface efficiency. After riding a fair number of miles on the company's most traditional-looking grip other models have a large wing under the rider's palm), I think they are great. First of all, they definitely reduce hand fatigue. I find that I haven't been gripping the bars as tightly as I usually do (which you shouldn’t be doing anyway) and as a result, my hands feel fresher after riding. Ergon's literature talks about the design allowing frequent change of hand positions, but in practice, I found that the opposite was true. Sure I could move my hand around a couple of millimeters in each direction but any further than that that and my hands wanted to go back to where they started. Not a big deal, but I thought it was odd that they mention something that never occurred to me was that important on a mountain bike and when my experience was more or less opposite what was suggested.

I rode an XC mountain bike race recently with these grips and I really liked how evenly they distribute pressure over my hands. My hands felt surprisingly happy while being jostled all over the (very bumpy) racecourse and even fairly fresh at the finish line.

My one complaint with the grips is that they do tend to feel a bit vague- as if you aren’t sure exactly where your hands are and exactly what they are doing. It’s probably something one can get used to, and who knows, maybe its just a result of my hands being in a more comfortable/neutral position, but I definitely felt slightly “detached” from the steering compared to other grips I have used.

Ergon also mentions that the GE1 can help with Ulnar Nerve comfort. I don’t seem to have an Ulnar nerve problem on mountain bikes, so I can’t make a judgment on this but I do tend to believe that these grips will offer some relief for people whose hands fall asleep while riding.

The GE1’s look pretty good, and the locking clamps also serve as stops to keep your hand from shooting off the end of the bar (another problem that I never had), but it is not a bad idea and maybe it’s the thought that counts. The palm rubber is firm but not too hard and a bit softer than the rest of the grip to provide cushion where you probably need it most.

I like these grips. They come in two sizes: Small (134mm) and Large (140mm) and they weigh about 182g (which is probably more than your stem, but I'll take comfort over light weight, thank you). I’ll change them over to my geared full-suspension bike soon and give an update after a few more months and (hopefully many) summer epics. They retail for around $35.00.

charlie

www.ergon-bike.com

see our Ergon BD-2 Pack review here

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bikefix Exclusive Review: Selle Italia XO Trans Am saddle

Why pay more? Every once in a while I stumble across a product that far exceeds the expectations generated by its modest price tag. Sometimes, corners have been cut but they're corners you don't really need. Sometimes, though, no corners appear to have been cut and one can't help but assume that the price was a mistake. This here saddle is an example of the latter.

Several years ago, a girlfriend picked up a Giant Cypress SX sporty hybrid. It was a cool bike for sure, and it came with a cheap OEM version of Selle Italia's XO Trans Am saddle. An avid mountain biker, she loved it and we ordered another for her mountain bike. The $40 aftermarket version of the saddle has steel rails, medium padding, a medium width, a 'taint-saving chasm down the center and is made of a nice durable synthetic cover. Doesn't sound particularly performance-oriented, does it? Somehow, I ended up riding the saddle a few times and was blown away. The multi-density foam is comfortable without being squidgy with an unobtrusive shape and no sharp corners anywhere. Oh, and it weighs came in at 270g. And is made in Italy.

Now, you can spend a lot of money on a saddle that is a lot less comfortable that weighs just as much. For reference, the $200 Aliante Carbon comes in at 259g. Nor the Aliante is a very good saddle. I have the "Gamma" version on a couple of bikes. If I'm going to spend all day on the bike, though, they don't come close to the XO in comfort. The saddle pictured here has been on several bikes and survived several 24 hour races- so its holding up just fine. What's not to like? Nothing comes to mind. Just be sure to spend the extra $10 or so to get the aftermarket version- the OEM has a vinyl cover that doesn't hold up nearly as well. Everybody's body is different, so trying before you buy isn't a bad idea. Of course, at $40, giving it a go isn't a huge risk.

marc

www.selleitalia.com

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cycling: safer than sex.

With Bike To Work Day coming up next Wednesday, we thought we might mention a couple of cycling-related facts. Riding to work allows many of us to kill two birds with one stone- getting to work and getting a ride in. Even if it's a couple of days a week, it's a great way to start the day and to put the stresses of work behind at its end.

Of course, there is a perception that riding to work can be dangerous. While its nothing to be taken lightly, so is driving. As frame builder Dave Moulton puts it, "If you rode your bike non-stop for 114 years, which is one million hours, your chances of being killed on the road would be roughly 1 in 4. In that same period, your chances of dying of natural causes would be at least 99.999%." Interesting math, but the fact remains that you're twice as likely to die in the car. You'll also be fighting off heart disease, pollution and congestion. If your commute is 20mi or under, you'd be surprised how little of a burden riding in is and of course, it's cheaper than driving and tends to cut down on unnecessary errands. Use Monday's ride as a recovery day and take Tuesday off and you may well be riding stronger come Sunday.

Its not an option for everyone, but is probably viable for more folks than tend to believe it....

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bikefix Exclusive Review: Maxxis Re-Fuse tires

I hate getting flats. Nothing has the potential to interrupt a good ride, on road or off, like the ffft-ffft-ffft-ffft of a punctured tire. At the least, it means a 5-10 minute repair. More often, though, it's a messy job performed with frustratingly insufficient little pumps, aged (and sometimes pre-punctured) tubes and (on really bad days) cold, driving rain. Before moving to the desert (and a city where roadside broken glass is endemic), I wasn't a big fan of sealant or puncture resistant tires. Oh how things change. Sure, puncture-resistant tires are heavier, more expensive and don't ride or corner as well as their softer counterparts. Sealant-filled tubes can be messy, heavy and fail as often as they work. That said, it doesn't matter how light or fast standard tubes and tires are if they aren't holding air. You can still win a race or get to work on time with heavy tires- not flat ones.

Enter Maxxis' Re-Fuse. It's a folding bead tire with both a woven Kevlar belt and what Maxxis calls their "Silkworm" cap. Details are sketchy, but it's a material that's claimed to increase puncture resistance, cut resistance and rolling efficiency. It has a knurled tread, is intended to be the company's most bombproof training tire and comes in at a reasonable 245g (700x23c). Pricing is a very reasonable $31.

For a while, I believed that these were the bees knees. They ride well enough and can be ridden fearlessly through all manner of road debris. Despite using them on two commuting bikes (fixed and geared) 3-4 days/week for past two years, I have zero flats. None. Once, while a bike was in the stand, I noticed a cut in the tire with something in it. I used a dental pick to fish out a piece of glass that had installed itself between the casing and tread rubber. Looking harder, I found three or four others. Still, no flats. That's pretty darn badass. Compared with other puncture-resistant tires, the Re-Fuse ride pretty darn well and aren't nearly as scary in corners. Several years back, working as a messenger, I laid a bike out and slid across traffic and in front of an oncoming limo. I still place blame (at least in part) on a pair of "puncture-proof" tires' stiff casing and their hard rubber tread hard rubber. It wasn't fun and is something I'd like very much to avoid repeating. Compared to the competition, the Re-Fuses are very confidence inspiring, both in wet and dry conditions.

Recently, though, I've started to see problems with the Re-Fuses I'm riding and have recommended to others. Nobody's complaining about the puncture resistance, but Maxxis seem to be having trouble getting the rubber to stick to the casing. A co-worker recently pointed out a 3in x 1/4in section of the tire with no tread- it had come completely away and he was riding on the woven casing. No flats, but that shouldn't happen- an exposed section of rubber-free casing can mean (at best) unpredictable cornering. Of course, taking photos of my tires for this review, I found a similar section on my commuter. After about 700 miles, my tire had to go in the bin. That's far too soon, in my opinion, regardless of a tire's price. The mating tire had a number of wrinkles where the rubber looks to be decomposing (see second photo). Again, no flats, but it doesn't speak well for the tires' lifespan.

It's a shame- my first set or two of the Re-Fuse had none of these problems. Hopefully, Maxxis has just had a bit of a production hiccup and already remedied the problem. I will be trying to get mine warrantied, but am not holding my breath (tire warranties are a hard thing). If they can get the rubber to stick to what has proved to be a bombproof casing, they'll have one of the best tires available for folks in thorn, glass or goathead infested areas.

marc

www.maxxis.com

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bikefix Initial Review: Giro Semi sunglasses

As I have said in the past, I am a sucker for sunglasses. I will try almost anything new and potentially better than what I'm wearing at the moment. When I read that the new Giro sunglasses were going to have Zeiss-certified lenses, I became very interested. Carl Zeiss is a legend in the optics industry, making and certifying some of the best camera lenses, binoculars, and scopes available. When the glasses came out, though, only the grey polarized lens for the Semi model was Zeiss certified. Because I don’t like polarized lenses for riding, I opted for the Rose-Silver- but all of the lenses are claimed to be manufactured with to the highest quality. I picked the Semi because it fit my face the better than the other “active” model (the Havik). The Havik and all its lenses are Zeiss certified, but the fit was too narrow for my face. The Havik features the only interchangeable lenses in the Giro line, which includes two "Active" models and two more casual (as in wearable off the bike) models.

One of the big selling points of the new Giro line is that the glasses are designed to fit well while wearing cycling helmets (only Giro helmets?). Giro calls this "Super Fit Engineering," which basically translates to "Short Arms." In the past I have had glasses that hit my helmet's retention system and it is a real problem (especially if they interact too much, which can cause crippling headaches). While it’s true that the Semi’s didn’t bump or rub on any of my helmets, I have a number of sunglasses that don’t get interfere with the helmet either. It has also been years since I had that problem, so it may not be a very unique feature, but it is a helpful one. Separately of the helmet issue, the Semi fit is snug at first but does loosen over the first few rides. They now fit me perfectly, even on my big round head. The Giro rep for our region said you can expect all the models to loosen after the first few rides, something to be aware of when trying them on. They don’t move or jostle around on my face when the trail gets rough, but they don’t give me a headache like some overly-snug frames have in the past. The nose and arm pads are made of a material whose grip increases when you sweat.

Another feature that took some effort on Giro’s part is what they call True Sight technology. One problem with the curved lenses that are so useful for keeping wind, sticks and rocks out of your eyes is that they tend to have more distortion than a more planar lens. The sharper the curve of the lens, the more distortion you get. However the more curved a lens is (to a point), the better it protects the eye from debris, wind, and UV rays. What to do? Giro claims you can have your cake and it too! The company doesn't go into a lot of technical detail, but they say they have vastly increased the distortion-free field of vision when compared to other sunglasses on the market. I have to agree that they are superbly clear and distortion free, but I don’t know if it is better than some of the other leading glasses out there.

Despite my dislike of polarized lenses, I plan on reviewing a pair of Giro’s with the Zeiss certification in the future. The Semi is definitely one of the nicest sunglasses I have worn. It’s easy to forget you are wearing them, and that is truly high praise for anything that goes on your face. I would like a bit more detail from Giro on their website about their glasses and the technology that goes into them, as what is there is a bit vague. I personally would like to see a red tinted lens that lets in more visible light than my Rose/Silver (23% light transmission) do, or perhaps a photo-chromatic lens option. The rose/silver, like many red-tinted lenses is designed to provide good contrast in the varying light conditions that most road and mountain bikers encounter on every ride. Giro does offer a number of different frame/lens color options for each style, but as I mention above, the lenses are only interchangeable on the Haviks. Considering their competition they are well priced between $90.00 and $170.00 depending on the model and lens.

Charlie

www.giro.com

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